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DAFFODILS NARCISSUS AND HOW TO GROW THEM
Prate I
A CENTURY-OLD FIELD OF DAFFODILS On the old Lalor homestead near Trenton, N, J., the old English trumpet daffodil (N. Pseudo-Narcissus) has been growing wild for a hundred years. When com- fortably naturalised, the season of flowering is somewhat earlier than in ordinary garden cultivation and there is always bloom in this field by the 25th of March
DAFFODILS NARCISSUS
AND HOW TO GROW THEM
As Hardy Plants and for Cut Flowers With a Guide to the Best Varieties
_ By A. M. KIRBY
ILLUSTRATED
GARDEN CITY NEW YORK DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
1914
CoryricHT, 1907, By DousBtEpay, Pace & ComPANY PUBLISHED, AUGUST, 1907
Aut Ricuts RESERVED INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE ‘I, Old-time and Modern Daffodils and Narcissus. 3 II. Daffodils in the Guten Hardest 17 III. Flowering Daffodils in Winter. 47 IV. Water Culture in the House. 63 ~V. The Commercial Production of Cut Flowers. 70 VI. Naturalising in the ‘Gus. 81 VII. Miniature Daffodils for the oo Garden. 90 VIIT. The One Insect and Gis Disa, 93 IX. Straightening Daffodil Nomenclature and Classification. . 98 X. The Large Trumpet Daffodils. . IIL XI. The Lesser Trumpet, Hoop-Petti- coat and Cyclamen-flowered Daffodils. 7 7 . 141 XII. The Medium-crown Hivbiids, - 148 XIII. The Pheasant’s Eye and Poet’s Hybrid Narcissus. : . 170 XIV. The Sweet-scented Jonquils and Campernelles. . 180 XV. The Tender Tn | Nar- Cissus. - 183
. The Hardy Cie awenk Nar- 4 192
cissus.
DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
CHAPTER PAGE XVII. Double Daffodils and Narcissus of
all Groups. . ‘ j . 196
XVIII. Some Autumn Flowering Species. 206 XIX. Hybridising and Raising from Seed. 208 Appendix. A Key to the Daffodils. , . 255 Index. eo ‘ 3 é - A 2 227
PLATE
ILLUSTRATIONS
. A Century-old Field of Daffodils
(C. M. Whitney). Frontispiece. FACING PAGE
II. An Ideal Planting (J. H. Me- Farland). ‘ 10
Ill. The Importance of Massing (H. G. Taylor). . Il IV. Types of Flowers (4. M. Kiros). 14
V. Planting in the Herbaceous Border (Henry Troth). . 28
VI. The Poet’s Narcissus Naturalised (N. R. Graves). . 29 VII. A Few Good Bulbs (4. M. Kirby). 44
VIII. Daffodils for the Window Garden (4. M. Kirby). . 45
IX. Paper-white Narcissus as a Parlour Plant (Van Wagner). 76
X. Commercial Cultivation in Flats (H. E. Angell). F ee /7)
XI. Commercial Production of Cut Flowers (H. E. Angell). 2 92
XII. A Flat of Flowers Ready for Cut- ting (H. E. Angell). 93
XIII. The Poet’s Narcissus in Landscape Effect (J. H. McFarland). . 108
XIV. Poet’s Narcissus Naturalised in a Lawn (4. R. Dugmore). 109
XV. Trumpet Daffodils Naturalised (Henry Troth). . 124
XVI. All-yellow Trumpet Daffodil (A. M. Kirby). 3 ‘ . 125
XVII. All white Trumpet Daffodil (A. M. Kirby). . 156
XVIII.
XIX.
XX, XXI.
XXII. XXITI. XXIV.
XXV. XXVI.
XXVIII. XXVIII. XXIX, XXX, XXXI,. XXXII.
DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
Medium crown, or Cup Daffodil (N. seeepace ite (N. R. Graves). ‘
Narcissus Barii cougpieaus WW. R. Graves).
The Hoop- petticoat Daffodils,
Narcissus Leedsii varieties (N. R. Graves). F ° .
Narcissus Nelsoni_ and N. Back- housei (H. E. Angell). .
Narcissus Leedsii and N. Burbidgei (H. E. Angell). .
Single and Double Narcissus i incom- parabilis (H. &. Angell and J. H. McFarland). . , .
Big and Little Daffodils ens Troth)
Narcissus poetics and fie new hardy, cluster-flowered N. poetaz (H. E. Angell). < :
Narcissus tridimus, var. Cloth of Gold (H. E. Angell), . ‘
Campernelle or Jonquil (N. R. Graves).
A Polyanthus Narcissus, N. Tazet- ta (N. R. Graves).
Two Dainty Flowers (H. E. Angell). F
Types of Double Van Sian Daffo- dils (H. E. Angell).
Wild Narcissus in Bermuda (4. M. Kirby). :
DAFFODILS NARCISSUS AND HOW TO GROW THEM
CHAPTER I
OLD-TIME AND MoDERN DAFFODILS AND NARCISSUS
The largest flowers of early spring—Universal adaptation— The homes of the wild species—Some early history—A word as to prices—The daffodil in legend and verse— What is a daffodil or a narcissus?
THE narcissus and daffodil have long been the most world-widely popular of all spring flowering bulbous plants. It is not alone the individual and collective beauty of their flow- ers that endears them to our hearts but the bravery of their advent, for “‘the time of the daffodil” closes the gates on bleak winter and ushers in, with trumpets of gold, longed-for spring.
It is true that these flowers may have been preceded by those of snowdrops, scillas, cro- cus, etc., with their boisterous weather accom- paniments, but the awakening of the daffodils —among the earliest of the important flowers of a new season—means the advent of mild and genuine spring.
4 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
What pleasurable associations the very mention of their names uncurtains among those of us who have been fortunate enough to be brought up in “old-fashioned garden” environment. We recall our annual spring de- light in watching the sturdy development from mother earth—almost before winter’s snow had melted—of groups of spear-like leaves, followed by big, fat buds that soon unsheathed their blossoms of silver and gold.
WHERE TO GROW THEM
The narcissus and daffodils may be success- fully grown in so many locations, and under so many different conditions of soil, and cli- mate, that we need scarcely ask ‘“‘where may they be grown?” Their freedom from cul- tural complications is, indeed, one of their chief merits. With the exception of a few of the Mediterranean and Oriental types that love warm, dry hillsides or well-drained rockeries, the great majority of varieties is nearly as hardy as rocks, and will grow, thrive and flower almost anywhere—in garden beds, in herbaceous borders and shrubberies, in grassy turf of lawn, meadow or woodland,
OLD-TIME AND MODERN 5
year after year, without any special care. Of course congenial soil, location and culture will produce better results than conditions less congenial; deep, cool, well-drained, sandy loam, in a semi-shaded situation, being the desideratum, but, like grass, they will ex- ist almost anywhere, flourishing most luxuri- antly when especially well placed. Correct garden culture produces the finest individual flowers, though the collective wealth of beauty of a colony naturalised on a grassy slope or stream-side bank is a feast for the eye.
But it is not exclusively in the open ground that narcissus and daffodils may be grown, flowered and enjoyed. Most of them (the very latest flowering sorts only excluded) are amenable to artificial cultural conditions; that is, they may be flowered during the winter in conservatory, greenhouse or window, in pots, pans or flats of soil, and some of them even in nothing more than a bowl of moss or gravel and water.
NARCISSUS AND DAFFODILS IN THE WILD
Many wild forms of narcissus and datto- dil, with their crosses, are still to be found
6 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
in their original locations. The typical nar- cissus, or small-cupped poeticus and Tazetta types, are indigenous to regions bordering the Mediterranean, their centre being in Greece and Italy; some of the cluster-flowered Ta- zettas (better known as polyanthus narcis- sus) are wild in the Orient as far as Asia; the trumpet narcissus or true daffodils are mostly found wild in Great Britain and Western Europe.
These three important species, with a few sub-species of lesser importance, slowly spreading inch by inch, annually, by offshoot or seed, over mountain and through valley— wherever conditions invited—often met; and as all wild, single-flowering narcissus produce seed, the different types sometimes crossing when in proximity and in flower at the same time, they have thus blended and given rise to mixed descendants—natural hybrids, some of which resemble one parent, some the other. Occasionally the offspring or hybrid would be so different from either parent that a new wild type was produced.
In addition to the above causes of variety in wild narcissus and daffodils, other natural
OLD-TIME AND MODERN 7
influences have assisted in typifying several forms. ‘Particularly responsible for this are local conditions of soil, climate, altitude and season—for environment moulds character and fixes types through the survival of the fittest. All of these wild types, by the way, are favourites for naturalising, as they show no deterioration under such conditions, as do the larger flowering modern garden hybrids when grown wild.
The first gardens that people had were composed of medicinal herbs, then were added a few things good to eat, and after- wards pretty plants to embellish. Among the first chosen flowering plants for gardens were narcissus and daffodils. In some gardens, a number of collected kinds were grown, which sometimes resulted in ‘‘garden crosses” and the production of new forms and varieties. Occasionally, new kinds of marked beauty or distinctiveness would be raised. These pleas- ing surprises, added to the intrinsic value of the narcissus as garden flowers, fanned the interest of cultivators into such a glow that some cultivators eventually learned to arti- ficially cross different types and even become
8 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
expert in producing definite results. But it was not until the last century that any great strides were thus made. In the year 1548 Turner is supposed to have described all then known sorts—numbering twenty-four—in “4 Few Narcissus of Dieverse Sortes.”” A hun- dred years later species, sub-species and their varieties had apparently increased to ninety- four, according to John Parkinson in his “Paradisus Terrestris.”
Between 1840 and 1860, two English ama- teurs, William Backhouse, banker of Darling- ton, and Edward Leeds, stockbroker of Man- chester, did some remarkably good work in hybridising narcissus and daffodils. ‘The col- lections of seedlings of these two gentlemen have been largely responsible for increasing popular interest in the cultivation and cross- ing of narcissus and daffodils during recent years. Among other devotees who have also done good work are Messrs. Barr, Burbidge, Engleheart, Hume and Nelson, all of whom have been honoured by having groups, or type sections, named after them.
Daffodils had become so popular that in. 1884 the Royal Horticultural Society of Eng-
OLD-TIME AND MODERN 9
land organised a great conference in London, and a permanent committee was appointed to take cognisance of new varieties of daffodils and make suitable awards to the more merit- orious. The daffodil craze was now on in earnest, and its impetus has increased con- tinuously ever since. Scores of rival enthusi- asts in Europe and Great Britain grow and cross daffodils and exhibit their flowers every year. Very high prices are paid for bulbs of particularly choice varieties, many of which cannot be purchased for less than ten dollars to twenty-five dollars per bulb, and a few of the very rare are worth as much as fifty dollars, and even one hundred dollars, per bulb.
More than that, there are some daffodils that may never be seen by the outside world, for a coterie of six wealthy daffodil lovers in England buys up the bulbs of any new varie- ty of exceptional beauty and merit—if none have escaped into commerce—paying extra- vagant prices for the sole ownership of the coveted beauties, from $500 to $2,000 sometimes being expended by these enthusiasts for five or six bulbs. One of the compacts of
Io DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
this close club is that at the demise of any member, his or her bulbs are to be distributed among the remaining members of the monop- olistic band.
In practical America, the daffodil fever has not, as yet, reached so acute a stage. Old, standard varieties, costing from a dollar and fifty cents to ten dollars per hundred bulbs, generally satisfy the esthetic tastes of our flower lovers. It is noticed, however, that some of the more progressive bulb importers are cataloguing a few of the newer and bet- ter kinds, and their answers to our inquiries indicate that there is a growing demand for choicer varieties, costing from fifty cents to one dollar per bulb.
At such prices, and even for much less, hundreds of beautiful varieties, creditable rep- resentatives from all type sections, are pro- curable, so that worthy collections may eco- nomically be made. Indeed, it is advisable to begin with moderate-priced varieties, for the higher points of the improved and more ex- pensive sorts may not be fully appreciated at first by the uninitiated. But in a year or two the beginner is educated to note the
Prate II
AN IDEAL PLANTING
Daffodils are most happily placed when grouped in clumps in the foreground of a mixed shrubbery border. Most varieties of the medium-crown type give satisfaction in all sort of conditions. (Narcissus Barrii, var. conspicuus)
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III tv1g
OLD-TIME AND MODERN II
points of superiority in the higher grades, and is led on to other indulgences.
THE NARCISSUS OF OLDEN TIMES
That narcissus, the ancient, small cupped and cluster-flowered sorts, were prized be- fore history was recorded, is evidenced by wreaths of their flowers being unearthed from tombs made hundreds of years before the Christian era. That the popularity of nar- cissus increased with civilisation is indicated by old Greek and Roman writings. It is nearly 2000 years since Virgil’s ““Empurpled Narcissus” was penned, and about 1,500 years ago that Mohammed said ‘“‘He that hath two cakes of bread, let him sell one of them, for bread is only food for the body, but narcis- sus is food for the Soul.” Ovid, about the year I, poetically crystalizes an ancient legend of the birth of Narcissus, the substance of which is as follows: Narcissus, a beautiful youth, was so impervious to the loving ad- vances of Echo and other suitors that Nemesis answering their prayers for vengeance, caused Narcissus to pine away in silent admiration of
12 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
his own image reflected from a mountain brook
“And looking for his corse we only found A rising stalk with blossoms crowned.” MODERN DAFFODILS THREE HUNDRED YEARS OLD
The praises of daffodils—the trumpets— have been voiced only during the past three centuries by Spenser, Shakespeare, Tenny- son, Wordsworth, Keats, and other poets. A good-sized volume might be filled with rhap- sodical allusions and poetic descriptions from the various writers about daffodils, all indica- tive of the continued popularity of branches of the narcissus family, throughout centuries of time. Space, however, forbids our quo- ting more than the following classic lines:
“__Daffodils that come before the swallow dares And take the winds of March with beauty.” —Shakespeare in “Winter's Tale”. “A thing of beauty is a joy forever and such are daffodils.” —Keats. “T wander’d lonely as a cloud That floats on high o’er vales and hills, When all at once I saw a crowd, A host, of golden daffodils; Beside the lake, beneath the trees, Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.
OLD-TIME AND MODERN 13
“Continuous as the stars that shine And twinkle on the Milky Way,
They stretched in never-ending line Along the margin of the bay;
Ten thousand saw I at a glance,
Tossing their heads in sprightly dance.
“The waves beside them danced: but they Outdid the sparkling waves in glee: A poet could not but be gay, In such a jocund company: I gazed—and gazed—but little thought What wealth the show to me had brought:
“For oft, when on my couch I lie In vacant or in pensive mood, They flash upon that inward eye Which is the bliss of solitude; And then my heart with pleasure fills, And dances with the daffodils.” —William Wordsworth.
THE TYPICAL DAFFODIL AND NARCISSUS
Though ‘‘Narcissus” is the botanical title of the whole family, the more showy large trumpet forms have so dominated that their popular name of ‘“‘daffodil” has come to sig- nify all the members of the family included in the large crown and medium crown sec- tions, embracing the intermediate hybrid groups. The name “‘narcissus” is still re- tained popularly for the small-cupped species,
14 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
Narcissus poeticus, N. Tazetta and N. Jon- quilla.
The relationship of the flowers can be best realized by looking at the diagrams in Plate IV. It will be seen that there is a con- siderable difference between the exterior form of the flowers as well as in their in- terior structure. From stem to mouth the flowers are practically of the same length, but the whorl of so-called petals*—perianth segments—is placed near the mouth in typi- cal ‘“‘narcissus’”’ flowers so that there is only a shallow cup in front of it. In typical “daffodils” the whorl is placed near the base, allowing a longer portion called the ‘“trum- pet” in front.
There are also differences of interior struc- ture. In the narcissus proper the stamens are in two series of three each, one set being con- nected to the tube near the top, the other lower down; in daffodils proper the stamens are in one series of six—all connected with the tube at one point nearly at its base. Prac-
*The term petals is used throughout this book to sig- nify the perianth segments; it is more convenient and is easily understood.
TYPES OF FLOWER
The perianth segments (A) form a collar, as it were, that may be pushed awa: from or closer to the ovary (F) so that there is a definite ratio between the length of the tube (B) and the depth of the crown (C
The sections:—(1) N. Tazetta, polyanthus; (2) N. poeticus, common narcissus; (3).N. Pseudo-Narcissus, trumpet daffodil. The stamens (C) are inserted in one seriesin (3), butin twoseriesin(1)}and(z). The pistil is indicated at (D)
Fig. 2 typifies the short crowned or saucer section
Fig. 3 is the typical eng cere flower or trumpet daffodil
Fig. 4 is N. Sprengeri, a hybrid from N. Pseudo-N arcissus (2) and N. Tazetta(1)
Fig. 5 typifies the medium-crowned or cup daffodils, N. incomparabilis, pro- duced by crossing NV. poeticus (2) and a trumpet daffodil (3)
16 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
tically all narcissus of intermediate form be- tween these two extremes are hybrids either natural or artificial between the two classes. For instance, N. Tazetta (Fig. 1) crossed with N. Pseudo-Narcissus (Fig. 3) has pro- duced N. Sprengeri (Fig. 4). Again, N. poeticus (Fig. 2) crossed with N. Pseudo- Narcissus (Fig. 3) has produced N. incom- parabilis (Fig. 5). As will be seen by a ref- erence to the plate the hybrid in each case combines some characters from each of the parents.
CHAPTER I
DAFFODILS IN THE GARDEN BORDER
How a bulb grows—Soils and varieties—Planting depths and distances—Early planting—Lifting and dividing— Winter protection—The ideal mulch—Sunshine and shade—Blooms for three months—Cutting flowers— How to select bulbs.
ALL narcissus and daffodils are bulbous plants, and an understanding of the phases of a bulb’s life will help materially in arriving at an intelligent system of cultivation. The bulb, the plant’s thickened, underground storehouse from which the roots descend and the stems, leaves and flowers ascend, is fully formed by the growing plant after the flower- ing period and before growth for the season is suspended, and it contains within itself next year’s flowers and foliage in embryo. In the thick, fleshy scales of the bulb is stored up a supply of food to support the new growth in early spring; these scales also serve as shields to protect the leaves and flower from injury, from cold or other external conditions.
17
18 DAFFODILS——NARCISSUS
The dormant period for these bulbs ranges from July to November, during which they may be dug from the ground, stored, and shipped around the world if desired. When replanted where soil and climatic conditions are congenial, the bulb develops leaves and flowers with as much luxuriance as if it had remained undisturbed in its original environ- ment.
The bulbs of narcissus and daffodils vary greatly in size, according to age and kind. The Tazettas, or polyanthus narcissus, make the biggest bulbs, averaging from six to nine inches in circumference. Some groups, as triandrus, cyclamineus, Bulbocodium, etc., make full-grown bulbs not much larger than peas; while the great majority of our com- monly grown narcissus and daffodils make bulbs of four to six inches maximum circum- ference.
SOIL PREFERENCES With very few exceptions, the hardy nar-
cissus and daffodils revel in coolness and a deep moisture-holding, air-penetrable soil,
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 19
overlying a pervious subsoil, and in partial shade. Though they will grow and flower most accommodatingly in any garden soil of average quality, yet they will do far better under more congenial soil conditions. Cir- cumstances do not always permit us to pro- vide these perfect conditions and we have to plan accordingly.
If there be a choice of several sites, it will be well to plant the different groups sepa- rately; the single yellow and bicolor trumpets in moderately moist but well underdrained loam; the poeticus types in heavier, damper, lower ground (particularly the double gar- denia flowered form, alba plena, which will flower only when grown in heavy damp soil).
In warm climates the popular old “Double Daffodil” or Double Van Sion (N. telamo- nius, var. plenus) also requires a damp moist soil to retain its rich yellow colouring as on a dry light soil in a hot situation it is apt to produce greenish-yellow flowers, and in some cases, even, all-green flowers.
The drier soils or high ground will answer for the white trumpet daffodils; and the dry, sunny, well-drained hillside or rockery, with
20 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
warm exposure, should receive the Bulboco- dium, cyclamineus and triandrus sections.
Although most of the important type groups of the narcissus family like cool, moist soil, yet it is essential that the moisture be not stagnant; that is, water must not remain con- tinuously about the bulbs nor roots, but be drained away from below. ‘‘Wet feet’ pre- vents maximum root development, and is apt, sooner or later, to cause ‘‘basal-rot” in the bulbs. Maintained moisture with abundant soil aeration is the ideal while the bulbs are in growth and flower.
The old idea that there is as much of the tree below ground as there is above is also ap- proximately true of the narcissus and if the plant grows 18 inches high the roots pene- trate the earth to approximately the same depth. It may be more practical to reverse this order of reasoning and say that if the roots can only forage six inches below the sur- face the growth of the plant and flowers above will be correspondingly small and stun- ted. ‘The whole secret of success in pro- ducing the best, the largest, the most perfect and the richest coloured flowers and foliage is
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 21
maximum root development—and root devel- opment is entirely dependent upon congenial soil conditions. Your neighbour may buy and merely plant in his garden a few Glory of Leiden daffodils and get flowers three inches across, very handsome and thoroughly pleas- ing to him. You, knowing a little more of what that variety is capable of doing, and knowing how to prepare the bed, produce flowers five inches across!
PREPARATION OF THE SOIL
Where nature does not supply the ideal conditions, our aim must be to reproduce them as nearly as possible.
Light, dry, sandy or gravelly soils must be made heavier and more retentive of mois- ture. This may be done by manuring and then growing crimson clover, peas, or some “oreen crop” that can be dug under to decay and add humus, absorbent, sponge-like vege- table matter, to the soil. While this may be done in the spring so that the soil will be in fairly good condition by daffodil planting time in September, it will be far better to make the preparations a year ahead.
22 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
If previous preparation is not practicable, something may be done by starting two or three weeks before planting time. Remove the top soil to a spade’s depth—six to eight inches—and work into the underlying soil to the depth of a spade, a two-inch layer of thor- oughly rotted stable manure. Then replace the top soil. The object of using the manure is not so much to supply fertility as it is to assist in holding moisture, preventing its too rapid leaching. Under any other conditions, the use of stable manure for narcissus and daffodils the year of planting is not desirable unless it be put a considerable depth below the bottom of the bulbs. Under no condi- tions must the manure be mixed with the upper soil, or where it would be in contact with the bulb.
Year after year, until I learned to be more strict, I used to see here and there a sickly, yellowish-leaved, stunted daffodil plant. An examination of the soil almost invariably dis- closed a lump of manure either in contact with the bulb or where its roots should have been, probably had been, but were destroyed by contact with raw manure. ‘“‘No roots, no flow-
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 23
ers; poor roots, poor flowers; good roots, good flowers.”
Heavy, wet clay soils need mellowing as a general thing, although some of the strong growing yellow and bicolor trumpet daffodils, and all of the poeticus and Burbidgei types will often make good growth and flower well for a time in heavy soil. Yet some plants eventually fail.
Underdrainage, either with tile or triangle- shaped board conduits placed three feet be- low the surface, and twelve to twenty feet apart, according to circumstances, is the cor- rective for wet, heavy soils. These drains are laid with a slight fall to an outlet, thus leading off the surplus water. The benefit of underdrainage is not only in drawing off surplus water, from below but also in opening the soil, allowing air to enter. The next best thing to underdrainage is subsoil plowing, or digging fully eighteen inches deep.
When previous manuring and preparation have not been done, use nothing but pure ground bone at the rate of two to four ounces on a square yard evenly strewn over the soil and dug in. Follow this by some high class
24 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
commercial fertilizer, rich in potash, at the rate of one to two ounces to a square yard just before leveling and raking.
On light, sandy soils, in addition, soon after the bulbs are planted, give sul- phate of potash, about one ounce to a square yard. Potash in some form, even that con- tained in unleached wood ashes, deepens the colouring of the flowers and checks abnormal growth of plant and foliage.
PLANTING DEPTHS AND DISTANCES VARY
The stereotyped answer to the question, “How far apart and how deep shall I plant the bulbs?” is this: ‘Plant six inches apart and cover the bulbs three inches.” While being approximately correct for the average growing varieties, the instruction requires modification to suit different soils, large or small growing varieties, and temporary or permanent plantings. Narcissus and daffo- dil bulbs vary as greatly in size as the plants and flowers they produce. Those of the Bulbocodium, triandrus, and one or two other groups grow no bigger than large peas, pro-
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 25
ducing small plants which may be grown three inches apart. Some full sized bulbs of other groups attain a circumference of six to eight inches, and make plants sometimes two feet high and of correspondingly large girth. These should be planted six to ten inches apart.
In light soils, plant deeper than in heavy soils. If planting only for the next spring’s effect, with the intention of supplanting the daffodils with summer flowering plants, closer planting can be done than if the bulbs are to remain undisturbed for several years.
In my own garden, with average soil, I cover the bulb with a depth of soil fully equal- ling its largest circumference. This places the base of the great majority of bulbs (the poeticus, the trumpets, the incomparabilis va- rieties) about four inches below the surface of the ground. In lighter soils, this would be increased one-half. Deep planting is always safer, especially in cold, exposed localities; but deeply planted bulbs flower later than shal- lower planted ones. On the other hand, late flowers are often larger and have better sub- stance than earlier flowers of the same variety.
26 DAF FODILS—-NARCISSUS
That at least some narcissus will thrive when planted unusually deep was exemplified in a group of old-fashioned double daffodils, growing in the lower end of a hillside border which I had filled in during the fall when the daffodils were dormant and leafless and so for- gotten. But they were not to be smothered with a covering of fifteen inches of soil and surprised us in the spring by blooming with unusual luxuriance, though about two weeks later than usual—and they have continued this performance for several years.
WHEN TO PLANT
Plant daffodils at any time between July and November and the earlier the better. The family is an exception to the generality of bulbous plants, and under natural conditions commences making new roots soon after the bulbs ripen, which, according to the earliness of the variety, is, in the latitude of New York, in June or July.
The poeticus types and their hybrids are especially resentful of being kept dry and dor- mant. When left in the ground they accept
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 27
no resting period but begin new root action almost before the old roots have matured.
Imported bulbs are not likely to be received before the middle of September, therefore it is well to have all preparations made in advance so that the bulbs can be planted at once. The more root growth made before winter, the larger the flowers. Late planted bulbs usually give fairly satisfactory results the next spring; but full-sized, characteristic flowers from late planted bulbs cannot be ex- pected until the second spring, though bulbs lifted from the ground in July and at once replanted, will give maximum blooms the next season.
GARDEN PLANTING
Small bulbing daffodils, those making bulbs not larger than an inch in diameter, are quickly and easily planted with a garden dibber. This tool is thrust into the ground far enough to make a hole of the proper depth. It is then wiggled back and forth to enlarge the hole at the bottom, so the swol- len base of the bulb may come in contact with the soil. If this is not done, the bulb
23 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
may “hang” midway down, leaving an air space below, which, if not actually detrimen- tal, is certainly not good feeding ground for the young roots.
The bulbs of varieties too large to go in the holes made by the dibber are best planted with a trowel, by which a hole of proper size and depth is scooped out. After the bulbs are placed—whatever method of making the hole is employed—they are to be covered with soil which if not ‘‘sticky damp’ should be pressed very firmly, by hand or foot, into con- tact with the bulb.
PLANTING IN TURF
Different methods of planting in sod ground are resorted to according to the diff- culties encountered in making holes to re- ceive the bulbs.
When the sod is sufficiently moist and soft, the quickest way is to use a spade handle sharpened dibber-like with a cross piece for a foot rest, fastened about 6 inches from the point. Another way is to thrust a spade or digging fork slantingly into the sod and soil, and raising the handle, thus lifting sod and
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PLATE Vi
THE POET’S NARCISSUS NATURALISED
The white poet’s narcissus (N’. poeticus) is one of the latest blooming varieties. It lasts well as a cut flower, and prefers heavier, damper, lower ground than the trum- pet daffodils. At Highland Park, Rochester, N. Y.
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 29
soil so that one or more bulbs may be inserted in the cleft. Then pull out the spade and tramp the sod back into its former position. This will leave the bulbs in a slanting position, which seems to make no difference to their growth and flowering, the plants coming up just as straight as if the bulbs had been placed perpendicularly.
SAND CUSHIONS
In heavy ground, or low-lying situations, where an undue amount of moisture from melting snow or other causes keeps the soil continuously wet for weeks during the spring, place a handful of sand under and around the bulb of any rare and delicate variety, partic- ularly the white trumpet daffodils. This will often prevent them from becoming diseased, as the sand allows the water to drain away
from the bulb.
LIFTING AND DIVIDING
The natural increase by offsets of some va- rieties is so great that the second year after planting, the number of bulbs will be trebled.
30 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
But most sorts are not so prolific. Still, in time, varying from three to six years, ac- cording to variety, soil, and the distance apart the bulbs were originally planted, the clumps of plants will have become so crowded, and probably the soil so exhausted, or both, that fewer and smaller flowers will be pro- duced. It is then time to dig up the bulbs, separate them and their offsets (young bulbs) and replant, either in fresh ground or in re- newed soil in their old locations. This opera- tion is called lifting and dividing.
The best time to do this, as a rule, is when the foliage has yellowed one-third down from the top, but some varieties, particularly those comprising the poeticus, Burbidgei and odorus groups, and possibly some others, should be lifted even sooner, for the reason that new root growth commences before the foliage has ripened down. In these cases the later lifting is injurious to the tender rootlets which are likely to die off, weak- ening the bulb and reducing the size of the next season’s flowers, even if it does not prevent flowering altogether. Of course, if fully ripened bulbs can be immediately re-
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 31
planted, without the young roots being ex- posed to sun, air-drying or handling, the dan- ger of injury will be lessened; but it is difficult to properly divide freshly lifted bulbs and their offsets on account of the adhesiveness of the soil and matting of wiry old roots. Therefore, it is considered good practice to lift early—better too early than too late— store the clumps in a cool, airy, shady place (preferably in trays) and there let them ripen and cure until the old leaves and roots are dry, when they are easily cleaned off and divided.
The actual work of “‘lifting’’ should be done by a spading fork. Never take a spade for this purpose, as the danger of cutting the bulbs is increased. Insert the fork a few inches from the clump, until the tines are com- pletely buried. Work it from side to side and up and down to loosen the mass. Then in- cline the fork so that it will pass under the bulbs and the clump is removed.
“Dividing” is a term expressing the opera- tion of separating bulbs held together by matted and intermingled roots and removing the offsets or young bulbs from the mother
32 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
bulbs. This is best done just before replant- ing. Do not remove any offset unless it is entirely detached from the mother bulb, with the exception of the union at the base. ‘This may be cut through with a sharp knife if the variety is choice, though the common sorts are usually merely broken apart. Be sure not to cut or break through any other sub- stance of the bulbs than the basal plate. Any surplus offsets which cannot be accommodated in the garden may well be used for natural- ising in the grass.
Commercial growers dig and divide their bulbs every year, a practice that may be justi- fied on a business basis, though I feel sure that the commercial stocks of some varieties would have better constitutions and produce bigger and stronger bulbs if these growers would dig and divide them only every second year.
WINTER MULCHING AND PROTECTION During the summer, nature provides a
mulch by covering the ground with weeds. We, in opposition, cultivate to kill the weeds
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 33
and in doing so—unconsciously perhaps— form a different mulch of cultivated soil, which breaks the capillarity of the soil, and prevents the sun’s heat and drying winds from drawing up and dissipating the soils’ moisture. The winter mulch while to some extent rendering the same service as a sum- mer mulch, has additional duties; its object is not only to maintain an even underground moisture and temperature but also to prevent the surface soil from freezing too deeply, and still more important—it must keep the frozen soil from thawing during unseason- ably warm winter weather and early spring thaws.
The net result of these alternations of frost and thaw is “heaving,” by which the surface soil is lifted and broken apart. Thus shallow-planted bulbs are often lifted and torn from their fall made roots which are anchored in the lower layers of soil. The win- ter mulch then holds together the soil and its contained bulbs and should not be removed until settled spring weather justifies it. |
In the wild, nature provides the mulch. When naturalised in grass, the leaves and
34 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
stalks of the grass ripen, bend over or break, and finally settle down, forming an ideal blanket, giving both warmth and airiness. In shrubberies, the fallen leaves accomplish the same result. Nature’s mulch is lightened by the winds of March and the balance is reduced by decay. In garden culture, it is not practicable to follow these gradations in covering and uncovering. The best that we can do is to cover, or mulch, as soon as the surface of the ground is frozen to a crust, not before, and to remove the mulch in the spring after hard freezing weather is over— before the growth of the bulbs has penetrated the mulch sufficiently to prevent its removal without injuring the young top growth.
THE BEST KIND OF MULCH
I have used several materials for mulching my bulbs and have seen still other materials used by others. The answer to the question “What is the best mulch” depends largely on what is available. The one direct lesson from nature is warmth, with air. In Hol- land the water rushes are used and they are
IN THE GARDEN BORDER ha
ideal, but they are not always available. I have a friend who grows narcissus and daffo- dils, in cold, bleak, northerly exposed, hillside ground, who uses a six-inch covering of forest leaves, and usually with great success. These are held in place by a few branches of trees. Towards spring this leaf blanket settles down to a compact mass about four inches thick, which in a less exposed and warmer location would give too much warmth and induce too early growth. In warm situations possibly a four-inch covering of leaves would answer well.
I have generally used strawy manure and with success when the winter has held steadily cold and kept the ground frozen until the manure could be removed before any bulb growth had penetrated it. But, sometimes, the manure covering has given disappoint- ment, as when prematurely warm spells have brought up an early growth which came in contact with the manure. This condition pre- vailed in the spring of 1906. As the plants developed, there were irregular streaks of sickly yellow leaved plants throughout the beds. I could not account for this as I knew
36 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
the beds were well drained and the soil prop- erly prepared, and the bulbs had been planted early. Mr. De Graaff, the well-known daffo- dil grower of Holland, was a visitor that sea- son and soon convinced me that the whole source of trouble was with the manure cov- ering. A fungus seemed to have run through it and had attacked the young growth of the narcissus; in some cases traveling down the leaves to the bulbs and even to the roots. He said: ‘Use no more manure. If you cannot get reeds or rushes, try sphagum moss or cocoanut fibre refuse.” A three-inch layer of cocoanut fibre refuse is light and airy, retains an even degree of moisture and is sufficiently warm. It is an ideal cover. It costs five dollars per ton at any factory where cocoa mats and such things are made though of course there is a freight charge to be added.
Salt meadow hay makes an excellent cov- ering, and even ordinary straw and hay may be used. Put it on four to six inches thick, according to the coldness of the latitude and the exposure. Should any of these harbor mice, there is little likelihood of their doing any damage if the covering is put on, as it
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 37
should be, after the surface of the ground has frozen to a hard crust.
In the spring, as soon as the ground is workable, after the winter covering has been removed, stir the soil with a narrow rake, hand fork, or prong weeder, to break up the hard-packed surface and so enable the plants to come through easily. If this is not done where the soil is heavy the growths will lift whole chunks of the surface soil and the pres- sure often causes the leaves and flower stalks to become crooked or otherwise deformed.
GROUPING IN GARDENS
Daffodils are most happily placed when growing in clumps in the foreground of a border of mixed shrubs and herbaceous plants. The shrubs supply sufficient shelter, and shade at all times, and the herbaceous plants grow up and hide the ripening daffodil foliage as is begins to get unsightly. Here the bulbs may remain undisturbed to flourish and in- crease for several years, or until a reduction in size and quantity of flowers indicates a too crowded condition, exhausted soil, or
38 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
both. Where that occurs, lift the clumps, divide and replant, as before explained.
Plant each variety by itself in irregular colonies of from twelve to twenty-five bulbs, each group in a little bay with a background of greenery; in the next bay, plant a colony of some distinct type that flowers either earlier or later, and so on. Such an arrangement brings out the full beauties of the varieties, prevents any inharmonious clashes, and by intermingling the early, mid-season and later flowering varieties, a long succession of bloom may be enjoyed in all parts of the border.
Daffodils may also be bedded out like hya- cinths and tulips, and very effectively too. Yet they never appear so beautiful as when col- onised in the mixed border.
RELATION TO SUNSHINE AND SHADE
The largest and most richly colored flowers are those grown in partial shade, although most varieties (particularly those having flowers of thick substance) do well when ex- posed to the full sun. Their flowers last longer when protected to some extent, from the heat of the noonday sun. This can be
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 39
provided by shrubbery, overhanging limbs of trees, etc. All white flowered varieties, and even the bi-colour or white winged trum- pets are particularly grateful for some shade; and the rich colouring of the new red-orange rimmed crown varieties is only retained when the flowers are shielded from the sun. If necessary cut the flowers when about half open and allow them to develop in water, in a cool shaded place. This is a factor that the American amateur should consider when studying the latest European lists, as I have learned from experience. I bought some new sorts described in terms such as “perianth showy white, cup rich golden yel- low, broadly edged with brilliant scarlet,” etc., and paid two dollars for each bulb, but could not at first make the colouring of the cups support the description. Eventually I learned that my failure was caused by my own lack of knowledge, and now all choice, highly coloured, and white daffodils are grown under a shade of tobacco cloth.
This is a sort of coarse meshed, strong cheesecloth that comes just one rod wide and is fastened on wire runners carried on top
40 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
of posts eight feet above the ground. Suffici- ent sunlight filters through for perfect devel- opment of flowers and colouring and more- over it makes an agreeable shade for anyone to study the flowers. Other advantages of this protector—which is put on just as soon as the mulch is removed—are tempering late frosts and breaking the force of heavy rains, thus preventing the bearing down of tall flower stalks and splashing with dirt. The cloth may be rolled up and put away for another season just as soon as the plants are through flowering, thus permitting the full sunshine to accomplish its work of thoroughly ripen- ing the foliage and bulbs. If we want good flowers the succeeding season, the plants must have abundant light and sun to complete their growth. In hot Australia and New Zealand daffodil amateurs make lath houses and cover the tops with tree boughs.
BLOOM FOR THREE MONTHS
With a proper selection of types and varie- ties embracing extra early, early, mid-season, late and extra late sorts, the ‘time of the daffodil” may be extended in the open ground
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 4I
over a period of three months; but only where a variety of locations is available, in- fluenced by depth of planting, and assisted by depth and retention of mulch.
To accomplish this, we need consider only the varieties flowering at the two extremes of the season. The “‘come-betweens,” comprising, at a rough guess, 7§ per cent. of the genus, will supply an abundance of bloom through- out their normal periods and we need there- fore consider them no further now.
What we need to do is to make some of the extra earlies flower still earlier and some of the extra lates flower still later than nor- mal. A choice of locations—early and late grounds—is the main necessity; the other contributory essentials we have under our own control.
To appreciate the difference between early and late grounds, take note where the snows always melt first—there the sun lingers long- est and it is “early ground” compared to where the snows melt last, which is usually on the north or shade side of a clump of shrubbery, fence or hedge. This will be the “late” ground. The difference in time between
42 DAF FODILS—-NARCISSUS
these melting snows will indicate how much the normal daffodil flowering season may be extended. By putting some bulbs of your extra earlies in the early ground, mulching but light- ly and removing same early, and by planting some extra lates in the late ground, covering deeply, say with six inches of soil, and retain- ing the mulch as long as possible, the desired result is assured. This fact was brought for- cibly to my notice by accident soon after I commenced growing daffodils, although at that time my garden area was only a 20x30 foot yard. The bed on the south side of the fence was fully three weeks earlier than that on the north side, and bulbs of the same vari- ety, planted on both sides, commenced flower- ing three weeks apart.
When one’s enthusiasm in daffodil culture leads to experiments in crossing types and rais- ing new seedlings, one will want to cross vari- eties that may flower one or more weeks apart. By reversing the directions just given and planting the late sort in the early ground, and the early sort in the late ground, one can bring the two in flower simultaneously so that they may be hybridized without resorting to
IN THE GARDEN BORDER 43
the more troublesome method of forcing the late sort into flower under glass.
CUTTING THE FLOWERS
When flowers of narcissus and daffodils are to be cut for house decoration or for shipping, they should be taken when partially open, al- most in the bud state. If the stems are then at once placed in water in a cool shaded place, the flowers develop larger and more richly coloured than they would have done if al- lowed to expand on the plant; and they also last longer.
In vasing daffodil flowers, their own foli- age usually harmonises better and sets them off better than any other greenery. But do not for this reason cut the foliage of choice varieties, for it is needed by the plant to assist in properly ripening and storing up the suc- ceeding season’s flower. Use foliage from the more abundant commoner kinds, and it will be equally effective.
SELECTING THE BULBS
For garden planting or for pots or forcing where flowers of maximum size and quality
44 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
are desired always choose “top” bulbs or the best bulbs the variety produces; but for per- manent plantings and naturalising the smaller younger and cheaper “‘seconds” may be used. In selecting bulbs for ‘Exhibition flowers,” an expert will choose the largest old “‘single crown” bulbs, which give larger but fewer flowers than the “double crown” or “mother bulbs.”
As different varieties of narcissus and daffo- dils make bulbs varying from half an inch to eight inches in circumference, it is difficult for us to tell how to select the largest old single crown bulbs of all varieties without making the following explanation of their manner of growth.
Specialised types (varieties) of narcissus not seedlings, are increased by offsets, the latter being produced by the “breaking up” of the mother bulb. These offsets at- tain full growth and vitality usually in about four years. Tjhe next year probably these bulbs will develop into the ‘double and triple nose” form (two or more bulbs in one skin). They then are “mothers” and the succeeding year will probably break up.
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IN THE GARDEN BORDER 45
It is at the maximum single crown age, just before entering the ‘“‘mother’’ stage, that the bulbs should be chosen for maximum flowers. Bulbs bought from a reliable dealer will probably be of just the right age, unless his price is considerably less than the average price of other reliable dealers, when it is more than probable that his bulbs are a year or two younger. If it is possible to examine the dealer’s stock of bulbs, look out for a few “double nosed” bulbs as their presence indi- cates the age of the crop and shows that the “singles” among them have attained maxi- mum size and age in single crown formation.
Another thing to be considered is health: This is indicated by solidity, weight and skin. Bulbs solid and weighty for their size are most likely in perfect health and vitality. To test any, press lightly between thumb and fingers both base and neck and if either feels soft and giving or “spongy” examine more carefully. Should any basal rot be found re- ject the infected bulbs to prevent dissemina- tion of the disease. Or if the bulb be of a choice variety it may be planted away from the healthy ones. A handful of sand below
46 DAF FODILS—NARCISSUS
and about an invalid bulb permits the water to drain away and the bulb may recover.
Look for a clean, shiny skin, indicating freedom from any fungus, although a rough skin, though suspicious, does not necessarily mean a diseased bulb.
CHAPTER III
FLOWERING DAFFODILS IN WINTER
Important factors—The best soil and its preparation— Getting bulbs early—How to order—August planting— Pots and potting—Pans or pots—What plunging does— The ash packing—Danger from heat—Importance of good roots—Forcing into bloom—What to do, after flowering—Varieties.
IT is an easy matter to grow narcissus in the house and have some varieties flower by Christmas, and from that time both narcissus and daffodils may be brought into flower in increasing variety and quantity until spring.
The growing plants need occupy no space in the window garden, or conservatory, ex- cepting while in bud and blooming, and their flowering period may be hastened or retarded at pleasure to keep up the succession. For earliest blooms the earlier flowering varieties of the Tazetta group are grown, particularly Paper White and Double Roman; these are often in flower even earlier than Christmas.
Successful winter flowering is dependent upon four factors:
47
48 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
1. Early planting. Procure the bulbs as early as possible and pot up at once.
2. Plenty of time to root thoroughly out of doors. Allow about twelve weeks for hardy varieties and six weeks for tender Tazetta varieties.
3. Slow growth when first brought into the house, giving ventilation and keeping the room or house cool: 50° until budded, then 60° to 65° for flowering.
4. Plenty of water when the buds are de- veloping and when in flower.
MAKING A GOOD POTTING SOIL
The ideal potting soil for daffodils is pre- pared six months or more before using. It should be sod taken from rich loamy land. Make your “mould pile” by first putting down a layer of inverted sod, and then cov- ering this with a layer of old manure—cow manure, thoroughly rotted, is the best. Over this spread a layer of leaf mould. Proceed in that way with another layer of inverted sod, etc., until the required quantity is stacked. This should be in the proportion of 50 per_. cent. loam sod, 25 per cent. manure, 25 per
a
FLOWERING IN WINTER 49
cent. leaf mould,.-Compost this by turning
the pile three or four times during the season - to get all ingredients thoroughly mixed. Be- fore using, add about four quarts of sand and. two quarts of fine bone meal to a ‘bushel of the mould.
If it is too much trouble for an amateur to prepare the soil as directed, it would be better to buy prepared potting soil from a florist, than to rely on the ordinary garden soil. Of course, it will be necessary to add the sand and bone meal just the same. The next best thing, if, for some reason, soil pre- pared in advance by yourself or the florist is not available, is to lift some sod, tear it apart, shaking out the soil and allowing the small pieces of fibrous grass roots to remain in it. Add bone meal and sand as in the other case, but omit manure. This last injunction is of paramount importance.
IMPORTANCE OF AUGUST POTTING Too much emphasis cannot be put on this:
get your bulbs as early as possible and pot at once.
50 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
A general order for daffodil bulbs sent to the bulb dealer will not be filled in the usua! course of things until he can complete the order and so ship the whole lot at one time— that is, after the arrival of the Dutch, Eng- lish, Irish and Guernsey bulbs, which means that you get your bulbs about the middle of September. Be emphatic, therefore, in giving — instructions to ship the bulbs ‘as they come in.” The purchaser then receives early in August, the South of France and Asia Minor bulbs including Paper White, Double Roman, and two or three others of the older Tazetta varieties, as well as three or four varieties of the old standard trumpet sorts—probably Spurius major, Golden Spur, and Emperor. Be very chary about accepting any Double Van Sion from these sections as they are apt to produce flowers with some or much green in them. It is just possible that the bulb dealer will also have a shipment in July or early in August of a few sorts of home grown bulbs from Virginia, probably Golden Spur, Emperor, Empress, Barri conspicuus, poeti- cus, and ornatus.
With a start of even half a dozen varieties
FLOWERING IN WINTER 51
in August, and the arrival of the European varieties in September, it is perfectly easy to have a grand show of narcissus and daffo- dils all winter from Christmas on. The ob- ject of getting the bulbs potted early is to give them plenty of time to ‘make root’’—three months is none too long—for remember that without good roots, good flowers cannot be produced even from the best bulbs.
POTS AND POTTING
I prefer to use five or six inch pots with several bulbs in each. The large potful not only gives better and more pleasing results, but is easier to manage than a small pot. One Golden Spur daffodil may be grown and flowered successfully in a four-inch pot, but it requires more watching and care, is more susceptible to changes of moisture, etc., than three or more Golden Spurs in a six-inch pot. In other words, it is better to suit your bulbs to the pot than to suit the pot to the bulb. An inch of space between the bulbs in a pot is ample.
In the case of small-bulbing varieties, such as the Bulbocodium, triandrus, and cyclami.
§2 DAF FODILS——NARCISSUS
neus groups, a dozen or more bulbs may well be grown in a five or six-inch pot. On the other hand, the big-bulbing Tazetta varieties can only go one bulb to a six-inch pot. The great majority of the trumpet and crown daffodils can be planted 3 to 5 bulbs to a six- inch pot. Plant only one variety in a pot; different varieties of different heights and not flowering simultaneously give an unsatisfac- tory result. 7 The pots to be used must be washed clean; if old ones; and if they are new, soak them thoroughly in water so that the pots them- selves will not dry out the soil after potting: Before putting in the soil, provide for good drainage by placing two or three pieces of broken pots over the hole in the bot- tom of the pot, to prevent it from getting stopped up. Cover this drainage with a small layer of sphagnum moss, cocoanut fibre refuse or old fibrous roots that have been shaken out of sod; then fill in with soil until, when it is shaken down and a bulb set on it, the top of the bulb is almost up to the top of the pot. Place the requisite number of bulbs in po- sition, and fill in with soil to within half an
FLOWERING IN WINTER 53
inch of the top (this much space being needed for watering). A little of the neck of each bulb will remain exposed, excepting in the - case of the very small pea-like bulbs of minia- ture varieties, which should be covered with soil to a depth of about half an inch.
If earthen pans are used, the procedure will be the same as for pots. Ejight-inch pans make ideal receptacles and when the plants are in flower look better than pots. Shallow boxes (flats) are used when flowers are to be grown in quantity for cutting. This is discussed in detail in Chapter V.
AFTER POTTING COMES “PLUNGING”
The secret of success in flowering bulbs is to make them develop roots before top growth starts. The object of “‘plunging’’ potted bulbs out of doors is to induce them to do this by keeping the lower portion of the bulbs warmer than the top. Failure to do this is responsible for most disappointments in grow- ing and flowering bulbs under artificial con- ditions. Without roots the flower can only develop as far as the stored up nutriment in the bulb will sustain it; and, as the bulb’s
54 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
supply of food is generally exhausted before the flower is half grown, nutrition supplied by the roots then becomes essential. It is easy to understand, therefore, that growth ceases if no roots are at work and the stunted plant becomes a monument to incompetent treatment.
There are various ways of plunging the potted bulbs; my method, and the one that I think most nearly fulfils the requirements of nature, is to dig a trench in the garden a foot deep in some location sheltered from the north and west, and where water will not flow into it. A three-inch layer of coal ashes is placed in the bottom of the trench for drain- age and to prevent worms from entering the pots. The pots or pans of bulbs are then placed closely together on the ashes and the interstices filled with soil, the trench being filled in to a little above the level, and the surface rounded over to shed water. Here everything is as conducive to root action and deterrent to top growth as if the bulbs were planted in the garden in the regular manner. When the surface of the ground is frozen to a crust, a layer, three or four inches deep, of
FLOWERING IN WINTER ee
salt hay, straw, or leaves is put over all.
Another way is to set the pots on the sur- face of the soil (on ashes) in a shady part of the garden, hold them together with a board frame and fill in around and over with ashes, leaf mould, tanbark or sand. Some growers stand the pots on the floor of a cool, airy cel- lar, or place them in a cold pit or cold frame. All of these methods are successful; but I prefer and always follow the trench method.
The hardy bulbs, potted and plunged as advised will be sufficiently rooted in_twelve weeks’ time and some of the early sorts may be ready a week or two.sgoner. Most Taz- etta varieties root more quickly, Paper White and Double Roman especially, these usually being ready in five to six weeks’ time.
If left in the plunge, all the bulbs will rest without making much, if any, top growth, the entire winter. Advantage is taken of this fact, and by lifting a few pots at intervals, and holding the remainder in storage, a con- tinuous succession of bloom throughout the winter is maintained.
The time required for forcing into bloom after the bulbs are brought into house heat,
5 6 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
varies from three to five weeks according to the variety. Before taking in the first lot of potted bulbs for forcing, make a careful examination to see if the pots are filled with roots, and do not take the pots indoors unless they are. The only way to do this is to “knock out” one potful of bulbs. Place the palm of the hand over the top of the pot, in- vert the pot and tap the edge lightly on a box or board. The ball of earth will slip out of the pot, intact, into your hand. If the bulb is well rooted, the surface of the earth ball will show a network of white roots. If only two or three roots are visible and the earth is inclined to fall apart, the bulb is not well rooted and is not ready for forcing. The examination completed, slip the pot back over the ball of earth, turn the pot right side up, press the top slightly to make all firm again. and replace in the plunge.
FLOWERING TIME, AND AFTER
When the well-rooted potted daffodils are taken from the “plunge” they must not at once be placed in warmth, but brought up to it progressively. ‘Too much heat is apt to
FLOWERING IN WINTER 57
expand the flower prematurely so that it can- not pass the neck of the bulb; or, if it does get through, the developing bud will be strangled by its unopened sheath. In other words, it “blasts.”
First, place the potted bulbs in a tempera- ture of 45 to 50 degrees, either in cold pit, cold frame, azalea house, cold greenhouse, light cool garret, or cellar. Here the young growth—probably blanched from its cover- ing in the plunge—will gradually turn green and grow slowly, but sturdily. At this stage, and thereafter until through flowering, water freely; and once a week give manure water the strength of brown tea or soluble commer- cial fertilizer dissolved in water, one table- spoonful to a gallon.
If the flower stems and buds keep pace with the foliage in growth, the treatment is cor- rect; if the foliage is outstripping the flower stems, it is proof of too much heat. When both foliage and flower buds are in an ad- vanced stage of development, the plants may be removed to their sunny flowering quarters in the window, conservatory, or greenhouse. For the best health of the plants at this time,
5 8 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
the temperature should not exceed 60° and the atmosphere should be fairly moist. In a higher temperature and dry air, the flowers sooner wither.
AFTER FLOWERING
Bulbs that have been forced into flower in the winter are usually thrown away, especially the cheaper sorts; still if the variety is choice, or prized, the plants may be saved. This is accomplished by growing them on in a cooler temperature until the foliage has ripened— about six weeks after blooming—then turn the pots on their sides, withhold water, and in another month remove the bulbs from the soil, cutting off dead leaves and roots, and store in a cool place until the time to plant in the gar- den in July or August. Ina year or two such bulbs will have recuperated sufficiently to be again forced, but they cannot be forced two years in succession.
VARIETIES FOR WINTER FLOWERING
Practically all types and varieties of narcis- sus, daffodil, jonquil, etc., may be successfully
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STIGOJAVd
FLOWERING IN WINTER 61
flowered in pots, pans or boxes during the win- ter if the cultural instructions previously given are carefully followed; but some kinds are much more responsive to forcing than others. If any are to be ruled against, it would be the late and extra late sorts (those marked E and F in the Descriptive Lists of varieties on pages 112 to 207). These are quite difficult to force, yet with a maximum time allowance for rooting and by growing cool—absolutely without bottom heat— even these may be brought into flower’ in March or April, but not in winter. The va- rieties marked * in the Descriptive List are especially suitable for winter culture in pots. For the convenience of the reader, a tabu- lar selection from the forcing varieties is giv- en on pages 59 and 60. The varieties named embrace first class representatives from all sec- tions, including early, medium, and late flow- ering varieties, to maintain an unbroken suc- cession of bloom. These are in three grades, popular, choice, and fancy, so that the pock- etbooks of all may be suited. It will, how- ever, be noted that in the “‘fancy’”’ no mention is made of rare new hybrids that are held at
62 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
prices that are prohibitive so far as the aver- age buyer is concerned.
In addition to those named in the tables there are a number of small and miniature flowering kinds that force most easily: Bulbo- codium, (all varieties); capax plenus (Queen Anne’s double daffodil); cyclami- eus (cyclamen flowered); Johnstoni Queen of Spain; the jonquils; juncifolius; Macleaii (Diomedes minor); triandrus (Angel’s tears), all varieties; and trumpet minimus. Plant these small growing narcissus 12 to 18 bulbs one-half inch apart in a pot or pan of suitable size, putting only one variety in the pot.
CHAPTER IV
WaTER CULTURE IN THE HouUsE
No soil to make dirt indoors—How much water ?—Start- ing in the dark and bringing into light—The “blast”— Culture in plain water, sand, or moss fibre—Chinese sacred lily—Trumpet daffodils in hyacinth glasses— Feeding.
For parlour and library or any place where . there is more or less danger of damage to car- pets and furniture from overflow watering of potted plants, the method of growing bulbs in glasses of water, bowls of pebbles and wa- ter, and moss or fibre and water has much to recommend it. The ladies of the family usu- ally find much pleasure in growing a few flow- ers in this way and the early varieties can easily be made to bloom by Christmas time.
Whatever the method adopted, the pro- cedure is substantially the same in all cases. The vessel holding the bulb and the water is put into an airy cool cellar, garret, storeroom, or cold pit, in dim light—not into
a close confined closet-—and kept there until 63
64 DAFFODILS——NARCISSUS
the bulbs are rooted. The time required is five to six weeks for the polyanthus varieties, and ten to twelve weeks for the hardy varie- ties. By this time, the tops will also have grown an inch or two. At this stage, remove to a light room with a temperature of about 40° to 50° for two or three weeks or until the growth and buds are prettty well developed, when the plants may be placed where they are to be used for their decorative effect. . The object of starting the growth very cool at first and reaching warmth by progressive degrees is to have the bulbs first make roots, and then a sturdy growth and produce flow- ers of greater substance and lasting qualities. Too much warmth, especially at first, induces long, limp leaves and is apt to cause the flow- ers to “‘blast,” i. e. fail to open the sheath. Daffodils may be successfully grown in glasses by using ordinary hyacinth glasses filled with soft or rain water, not quite touch- ing the bottom of the bulb. A lump of char- coal in the bottom assists in keeping the wa- ter sweet. Replenish the water as evapora- tion reduces the quantity and change entirely every week or two, or whenever there is an
WATER CULTURE IN THE HOUSE 65
indication of its getting stale. A pinch of some soluble plant food, purchasable at seed stores, in each glass of water once a week while the plants are in bud and blooming will be of great benefit.
Probably any of the early flowering daffo- dils may be grown in this way but the follow- ing trumpet varieties have proven well adapted: Henry Irving, Golden Spur, Hors- fieldi, Victoria, and Double Van Sion.
THE CHINESE SACRED LILY IN WATER
Varieties of the polyanthus section, espec- ially the so-called “Chinese Sacred Lily” give very beautiful resulfs when grown in glass bowls filled with pebbles and water. The pebbles are used merely to support the bulb. Use shallow bowls, place a little granulated charcoal in the bottom to keep the water sweet, and cover with a one-inch layer of bird- gravel or sand. Set the bulbs on this nearly touching one another, three or more to a bow] according to size. Fill in with white pebbles, or, if they are not available, more bird-gravel. This will prevent the plant from toppling over when in leaf and bloom. Pour in water
66 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
until it almost reaches the bulbs. Place in a cool spot to root, and grow on in a low tem- perature as advised in the preceding pages. Replenish the water as it evaporates and occasionally change if it shows any signs of getting stale.
Some of the early flowering trumpet daffo- dils may also be grown in this way, but the kinds of narcissus almost infallibly successful are the Tazetta varieties, especially gloriosa, Grand Soleil d’Or, Grand Monarque, Maes- tro, Paper White, and particularly the Chi- nese sacred lily, the latter coming into bloom the quickest of any, often in six weeks from planting.
By making an incision just through the skin across the bulbs of the Chinese variety and about an inch from the top of the main bulb, it will liberate an additional lot of leaves and flowers. By this method one bulb will often bear eight to twelve spikes of bloom.
FIBRE OR MOSS AND WATER
This is perhaps the best and most success- ful of all methods of water culture. Use bowls, pots, or jardinieres without holes.
WATER CULTURE IN THE HOUSE 67
To prepare the medium, take one part of cocoanut fibre—or if that is not available, sphagnum moss—and add to it one pint of granulated charcoal and one quart of washed sand or bird-gravel. Mix thoroughly. It will probably be necessary to tear the fibre or moss to pieces to accomplish this. Place about two inches of this material in the bot- tom of the jardiniere, put the bulbs on it, nearly touching one another, and fill in with more material, making all quite compact, but do not jam too tight. Leave only a portion of the necks of the bulbs exposed. Water to thoroughly moisten the fibre all through; and turn the vessel on its side until all surplus water has drained off.
Rooting can be done in any cool, airy room; and, for the rest, follow the directions given in the preceding paragraphs. The fibre must never be allowed to get dry—neither must it be so freely watered that it becomes soggy, at least not until the plants are in bud and blooming, during which period they will stand more water.
As stimulating food for the bulbs grown by the moss and water method a little weak
68 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
manure water the strength of brown tea may be used, but I prefer the soluble plant food tablets on sale at the seed stores. They are clean, odourless and quickly dissolved in warm water. Dissolve one tablet to a gallon of water and give each pot a tablespoonful of this solution once a week.
All hardy varieties previously recom- mended for pot culture, and all of the half- hardy polyanthus varieties, may be grown in fibre or moss and water—preference being given to the early and mid-season flowering kinds.
Some English amateurs have been most successful with the method. A report of a daf- fodil show at Bideford states: ‘Especially noticeable were Mrs. Hobhouse’s six trum- pet daffodils, grown in moss fibre—Golden Spur, Empress, Mrs. Thompson, Victoria, princeps, and albicans. These were a mass of bloom, containing over 100 fully-devel- oped flowers, size and quality leaving noth- ing to be desired, while the foliage was per- fect. The best pot of daffodils in the show, and which deservedly won the silver medal, was grown by Miss Farrington, and had
WATER CULTURE IN THE HOUSE 69
twenty splendid flowers of Sir Watkin. The whole pot was as sturdy as if grown in the open and in the most congenial soil. This shows what can be done with moss fibre.”
CHAPTER V¥
THe COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION OF CUT FLOWERS
The florist’s special requirements—Economy of bench space —Making flats—Burying in the open—Temperatures— When to water—Feeding and stimulating—Profitable forcing varieties—Causes of failure—A new industry— Daffodil cut flower farms—Field culture in the South —Preparation of the ground—Shipping the flowers.
THE florist whose sole object is to produce during winter, under glass, a large quantity of high quality flowers in a small space with the minimum of labor and expense grows his daffodils in ‘flats.’ The cultural details in this case, however, do not differ materially from those already described in Chapter III, though here the routine of handling is more specialised.
FORCING IN FLATS
Flats are shallow boxes or trays about four inches deep and of a size approximating 12 to 18 inches, though the actual size should
7o
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION 71
be such that they may be placed on the green- house bench without loss of room. A flat of ~ the dimensions given will hold 36 to 48 bulbs, according to size, allowing a space of from I-2 inch to 1 inch between -bulbs, which is sufficient. The reason for using flats is to é€conomise space, enabling one-third more bulbs to be grown to a square foot of bench than could be done in pots or pans. The flow- ers produced in flats are exclusively for cut- ting and they are nearly as good as those pro- duced in any other way.
The flat should have a few holes or a couple of slits or cracks in the bottom to permit free drainage, these openings being covered with moss, fibre, or the fibrous roots from old sod to prevent soil from washing out. Put over this an inch of the prepared soil and set in the bulbs, using, of course, only one va- riety to a flat. Fill in with more mould to within half an inch of the top of the flat; give a good watering if the soil is dry and place —preferably—in an uncovered frame. Fin- ally cover the flats with old leaf mould, ashes, tanbark, or soil to a depth of three or four inches.
~
72 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
The buried flats or boxes are now to re- main without any further attention, not even watering, until the bulbs are thoroughly rooted, which will require: for the Paper White and early flowering Tazetta varieties from five to six weeks, and for the hardy varie- ties, the trumpets, etc., from ten to twelve weeks. The earlier the normal flowering time of a variety the quicker it roots.
BRINGING INTO WARMTH
When the bulbs are well rooted the mulch- ing is removed and the flats taken into a cold shed, cold greenhouse, or pit with a tempera- ture of from 45°to 50°, and kept there until the foliage has grown somewhat and the buds are well up. From here a few flats are taken at different intervals, when a succession of bloom is desired, into the greenhouse or con- servatory, for flowering. Even here a tem- perature of from 60° to 65° is high enough for the best flowers. The early flowering Tazetta varieties can stand a slightly higher temperature with some loss of substance only; but the later flowering and hardy varieties will in all probability fail to develop their
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION 73
flowers—‘‘go blind,” as it is termed, in a high temperature.
As soon as the flats are brought indoors, watering must be attended to carefully, espee blooming. At this stage of growth daffodils will consume great quantities of water and a meagre supply is sure to result in poor flow- ers, if not in absolute failure. A moist atmo- sphere should be kept in the greenhouse to as-. sist the flower sheaths in opening, in fact an occasional good syringing is advisable for this very purpose. In the open air, the wind and rain, and the movement of the plants as- sist in opening the sheath and in preventing its drying up and strangling the enclosed flower. Manure water diluted with water to the colour. of weak tea, applied once a week (about a pint to a flat), will materially assist in the production of large, well-formed flowers.
Bottom heat must not be given. Some varie- ties, particularly those of the poeticus family, or in which the poeticus blood predominates, resent heat. Even though well rooted, they cannot be forced beyond their limit. A case in point: A well-rooted batch of poeticus or-
74 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
natus was brought into heat too quickly and the top growth simply stood still—it would not budge with six weeks of forcing. The grower finally in disgust threw the flats out of doors where the bulbs encountered the rigours of frost and snow, but with the ad- vent of spring weather developed plump buds and later splendid flowers. This will empha- sise the vital importance of making haste slowly when forcing the naturally late-flower- ing kinds. A good rule to keep in mind when forcing hardy narcissus is: Temperature 40° for roots, then 50” until the buds are through the necks, then 60° to 65° for best and most substantial flowers and foliage, 70° to 80° to rush growth and bloom with loss of substance and danger of going “blind.”
VARIETIES FOR FLAT CULTURE
All the undermentioned varieties (page 75) will “force.” It is understood that the early flowering varieties can be held back to flower later than the time specified; but the late-flowering sorts cannot safely be brought in bloom before the time mentioned. Some of
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76 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
the varieties named may be a little too high priced for general commercial work; but will be found beautiful for private use where qual- ity, irrespective of cost, is more considered.
While the forcing into early bloom is a comparatively easy matter for the experienced commercial grower and well-informed pri- vate gardener, yet there are others to whom success is not always assured. Their failures are usually traceable to neglect of some one or more of three things: rst, early planting; 2nd, cool treatment (45° to 50°) until the buds are well through the necks; 3rd, plenty of water and a moist atmosphere while in bud and bloom.
FIELD CULTURE FOR MARKET FLOWERS
Within the last few years a new industry has been developed in the United States, the growing of daffodils under field culture for the production of cut flowers for market. Though yet in its infancy, there does not seem to be any reason why this industry should not attain considerable proportions. There are three establishments of this kind of which
Pirate 1X
PAPER-WHITE NARCISSUS AS A PARLOUR PLANT It may be grown in bowls of water dike the Chinese Sacred Lily and can be had in flower before Christmas if potted in August and brought into the light as soon as rooted (six to eight weeks)
PrLate X
A flat measuring 12x 18xz4 inches will accommodate three to four dozen bulbs. Water thoroughly and place under cover, either in a frame or buried in the open ground under light soil or salt hay until rooted. Polyanthus varieties root in six weeks; trumpet varieties in ten to twelve weeks.
After rooting, take the flats into a cold shed (temperature 45° to 60°), keeping them there until the foliage and buds are well up. From this cold shed they can be brought in for forcing as required, in a temperature of 60° to 65°
COMMERCIAL CULTIVATION IN FLATS
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION 77
I have personal knowledge, and probably there are others.
The pioneer daffodil farm is near Peters- burg, Va., a second started up near Ports- mouth, Va., and the third is situated a few miles southeast of St. Louis, Mo.
It is significant that these three daffodil farms are situated in practically the same lati- tude; not too far south for the well doing of hardy daffodils, and yet not so far north but that their open ground flowers can be pro- duced sufficiently early to compete—especially for Easter trade—with the daffodils forced under glass in the North. These farms com- mence to cut flowers in March.
A FLOWER “FARM”
The soil of the Petersburg daffodil farm is ordinarily good “‘corn ground,” a long cul- tivated sandy loam. This was manured heav- ily and plowed. A subsoil plow followed in the furrow to break the hardpan and open the subsoil, mole-track like, to a depth of eighteen inches. A crop of cowpeas was grown on the land and plowed under in the fall. The next
78 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
spring this ground was again plowed and harrowed, leaving the soil in a fine mechanical condition—a rich deep sandy loam, with mois- ture holding humus.
Planting is done in July and August, the bulbs being dropped four to six inches apart in furrows plowed out six inches deep. Five or six furrows, one foot apart, constitute a bed, and the beds are separated by a three- foot walk. These walks are for the conven- ience of the flower gatherers, affording a con- venient place to set the baskets, preventing in- jury to the plants. In early winter a top dressing of strawy manure is placed over the beds and is allowed to remain as the growers think that longer stems are thus produced.
The first spring after planting only a fair crop of medium-sized flowers is produced— possibly because the more expensive, large- sized, bulbs are not planted. But the second year after planting, and for three or four years more, great quantities of long-stemmed flowers are gathered. About the fifth or sixth year after planting the bulbs become crowded as a result of natural increase and the flowers they bear are smaller and less salable.
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION 79
Consequently they are dug up, separated, and replanted in fresh ground.
GATHERING WITH LONG STEMS
The flowers are gathered when only about half open for they develop quickly after they reach the customer and the stems are put into water. As long stemmed flowers are de- manded in the markets, the stems are pulled as long as possible, not cut nor broken off.
As the flowers are gathered in the field they are stood up in baskets, and carried to the packing shed where the stems are placed in tubs of water, to absorb moisture and freshen up the flowers. Girls now pick them out, one by one, tieing them in bunches of twenty-five. The bunches are long, flat, and one sided, a layer of two or three flowers, then an under layer, and so on, every care being exercised so that the flowers are not bruised or broken. The bunches are then packed for shipment in light, wooden boxes,—paper lined, to retain a moist atmosphere—and sent by express to various city flower markets.
Very many varieties may be grown under field culture for cut flowers, but naturally the
80 DAF FODILS—-NARCISSUS
expensive, newer, large-flowering hybrids can- not be used with profit, for the bulbs must be planted by the thousands. So long as the flow- ers are of good-size with long stems, all varie- ties seem to bring the grower about the same average price, 5oc. for a hundred flowers, though early in the season they often realise double that figure or more; but late in the sea- son the return is much less. For this reason the old reliable medium-priced standard sorts mentioned below are chosen. ‘These, well grown, produce large marketable flowers on long stems, and the different kinds furnish succession of bloom for two months or more.
DAFFODILS FOR CUT FLOWERS OUTDOORS.
Type Name Season
Large trumpet, yellow Henry Irving Early
rugilobus Early
Golden Spur Early
Double Van Sion Early 7 Emperor Mid-season
bicolor Horsfieldi Early
Victoria Early Empress Mid-season
Medium trumpet, crown, Jincomparabilis Sir Watkin |Early or cup incomparabilis Autocrat |Mid-season stella superba Mid-season
Barrii_conspicuus Late
Leedsii. Dutchess of Tate
Westminster noeticus ornatus Late
CHAPTER VI
NATURALISING IN THE GRASS
The lesson from nature—Where to plant—How to colonise in meadows—Where delicate kinds flourish—Methods of planting—Hardy varieties naturalised in New Eng- land—The Tazetta in Bermuda—What to Plant.
“NATURALISING” is a most effective method of planting daffodils. By this term I mean planted broadcast in quantity in field, meadow, open woodland or the wilder por- tions of the estate, and left alone to flourish and spread along natural lines. All the hardy daffodils may be naturalised, the wild types doing the best while the larger flowering modern hybrids are likely to “run out’’; that is to say, they may lose their size, and dete- riorate toward the parental types.
The effect of the daffodil blooms mingling among the grass is one that cannot well be described in words. The army of graceful flowers nodding and waving with the breeze is entrancingly beautiful. The greater the
quantity used, the more the pleasure derived. 81
82 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
It is the collective view of the mass that at- tracts and not a close analysis of the indi- vidual flowers.
The naturaliser should make his plantings simulate nature’s distribution of plants. Do not plant bulbs evenly over the field, in serried ranks, but take double handfuls of the bulbs and, as it were, scoop them out over the sur- face of the ground in irregular masses, plant- ing them where they fall, dense in one place, thin in another. Scattered in this way, they grow with a natural effect which is little dis- tinguishable from the handiwork of Nature herself.
COLONIZING IN MEADOWS
In the meadows of England the Double Van Sion, or N. telamonius var. plenus, covers acre upon acre.
Colonies may be established wherever there is a bit of grassland that need not be mown before the end of June, for narcissus leaves must not be cut before the bulbs are thorough- ly ripe if flowers are desired the next season. The charm of a mass of daffodils in flower is often enhanced when it is opened to our view
NATURALISING IN GRASS 83
in unexpected places. A colony in flower with a background of sombre tree-trunks is contrastingly effective, a group on the bank of a stream, pond or lake with reflections of the flowers mirrored in the water is entran- cing. A pocket of soil beneath some boulder on the hillside enlivened with daffodils will be a gem. Dozens of locations will suggest themselves to those who catch the spirit of planting daffodils to simulate nature’s plant- ings. But only those who have seen narcissus and daffodils naturalised can fully appreciate their wealth of beauty, creating a picture not unlike a cloud of gold and silver butterflies resting on the turf—yet ever restless, nodding and fluttering.
THE MATTER OF SITE AND SOIL
Naturalising is so universally successful because the bulbs when grown thus are not so particular as to soil as when grown under garden cultivation. ‘Planted in grass they are in an ideal home; the turf is sweet and free from manure, the soil’s moisture and tem- perature are more evenly maintained, and, moreover, the grass-roots bind together the
84 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
upper and lower strata of soil, rendering the bulbs less susceptible to the tearing of alter- nate freezing and thawing, and the winter mulch or protection of dead grass is better than what we can supply under artificial con- ditions; therefore it is not to be wondered at that many delicate varieties often thrive for years under these conditions but die out after a season or two in the garden.
At the same time, if a variety of soils and situations are available, choice should be made to suit variety to soil. Thus, on the heavy, moist, lowland, plant the poeticus and odorus families and on the high land, with lighter soil, the white trumpets which revel in checkered sun and shade. Almost any situa- tion will answer for the other classes; viz: the all-yellow and bi-colour trumpets, and va- rieties of the incomparabilis, Barii, Burbidgei and Leedsii groups. In moist, heavy soils daffodils increase by offsets and then grow in clumps. In harder ground the increase is mostly from seed and the plants grow singly.
ART IN GROUPING
If group planting is followed, never mix
NATURALISING IN GRASS 85
two varieties, but plant each kind by itself. It is quite permissable and indeed very effective to plant two or three groups, early, mid-sea- son and late-flowering sorts, in proximity so as to keep up a longer display of bloom. Ar- range the groups or collections of groups so there will be a liberal breadth of grass be- tween to act as a foil. Plant the bulbs with a bounteous hand—about six inches apart—not less than twenty-five bulbs of one kind to a group— though 100 to 1,000 will be better if the area of ground permits. Arrange the groups with irregular outlines, having a dense patch, not necessarily at the centre, as a focus point for the eye; no circles, no squares, no rows, and no two groups alike.
Another method of natural planting, espe- cially suitable for borders and shrubbery, is in dense, irregular clumps. Old plantings of bulbs will often take on this character, and in truth, as the influence of time is felt, irregu- larity of distribution with heavy, dense masses irregularly outlined here and there, is the ul- timate disposition. This effect is due to two prime causes of planting in natural, or unpre- pared soil; namely, that certain bulbs find ex-
86 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
ceptionally congenial situations, while others are set in spots absolutely uncongenial and consequently die.
HOW TO PLANT BULBS IN TURF
The bulbs are most quickly planted when the ground is soft after a rain. I then use a spade handle, sharpened dibber-like. A cross piece, mortised in and securely bolted about eight inches from the point, serves as a foot rest to assist in thrusting the dibber in the earth. Working the handle a little enlarges the hole at the bottom large enough to re- ceive the base of the bulb which should be about six inches below the surface. After dropping in a bulb, fill in with a handful of soil. The bulb will thus have a covering of soil three to four inches deep.
Another method that is quite expeditious and satisfactory is called ‘“‘notch planting.” A sloping cut is made with a spade, the turf and soil being pried up and held by a man while a boy places two or three bulbs in the cleft. The turf is then tramped back firmly. The bulbs in this style of planting lie inclined
NATURALISING IN GRASS 87
on their sides, but it does not seem to make any difference for the growth comes up straight above the surface.
VARIETIES FOR NATURALISING
For naturalising in lawns which have to be cut in May the following extra early flower- ing miniature daffodils may be utilised: trum- pet minimus, cyclamineus, moschatus (Span- ish), trumpet minor and capax plenus. They make a beautiful picture when in flower against the green grass carpet, and will be suf- ficiently matured not to be injured for the next season’s blooming if the grass is not mown before May.
TRUMPETS IN NEW ENGLAND
There is an impression in some quarters that the trumpet daffodils cannot be natura- lised as far north as New England, but Mr. John Parkinson, of Boston, is said to have large groups of Emperor and Empress plan- ted twenty years ago on his country estate, at Bourne, Mass. At the Ames Estate, North
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NATURALISING IN GRASS 89
Easton, these varieties, together with prin- ceps and Golden Spur, are naturalised in a spot where the soil is always quite damp; they have now been planted seven years and show a gratifying increase, but it is noted that the smaller white flowered Leedsii varieties increase faster than those of the large trum- pets. On the other hand, Mr. E. O. Orpet at South Lancaster reports that he finds that the trumpets do better where the soil dries out during the summer resting period of the bulbs.
In warm climates, the Tazettas or polyan- thus narcissus will naturalise and spread like weeds. On the island of Bermuda one of these charming varieties has escaped from cultivation and has become as firmly estab- lished as any wild native. In this congenial climate there are narcissus flowers from De- cember to July. The residents assert that these narcissus have been growing in the same places “‘since they could remember.”
CHAPTER VIL
MINIATURE DaFFropiILs For THE Rock GARDEN
Little gems that would be lost in the border—Mountain species to grow only in rock pockets and special soils.
THERE are a number of dainty little-flow- ered members of the daffodil family, of per- fect form, that if planted in the garden and border would be practically lost to sight, yet they are gems when grouped, a dozen or more of a kind, two to four inches apart, in the soil pockets of a rockery. In fact, some of these “tiny tims” were found wild in the fastnesses of mountains, growing in the crevices of rocks in little pockets of gritty soil and they do not seem able to live in cultivation unless in a properly built rockery—or rock garden —with well-drained soil pockets leading clear to the surface of the ground—filled in with gritty, peaty, soil and positively no manure. They thrive to perfection under suitable con- ditions and increase for several years. If a
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92 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS:
low growth of alpine plants, hardy mosses or even short fine-leaved grass can carpet their nests, the bulbs seem to last longer; moreover, such a mulch keeps the rain from splashing dirt on to the flowers, and, peeping through the green, they present a picture in the spring far out of the ordinary.
All those named in the adjoining table are adapted to rock-culture, the special require- ments of each being given in the last column.
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CHAPTER VIII
Tue ONE INSECT AND ONE DISEASE
THE daffodil amateur has a happy lot in the matter of diseases and insects. No green fly to suck the juices, no host of invad- ing bugs to chew up the results of the year’s work; nor are there rusts or anthracnose that must be sprayed with poisons. The daffodils flower and ripen their foliage before any of the everyday pests of the garden are awakened for the season. And after that, even, they are comparatively safe, for the bulbs are usu- ally distasteful to moles and mice, which turn to them only when all else fails; and foli- age nor plants are not relished by either browsing animals or by birds.
Daffodils may not be immune, however, for the sparrows have made a start. In the spring of 1906, I noticed for the first time that a few of the earliest daffodil flowers were being nipped by these birds. Incident: ally the variety was Early Bird. Daffodil salad evidently was not to their liking,
93
94 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
for the little pieces torn from the flow- ers were found scattered about nearby. Af- ter tasting the flowers for a day or two, they left them alone for the rest of the season.
THE BASAL ROT DISEASE
The one serious pest of the daffodil is a fungous disease, ‘‘basal rot,”’ a sort of dry rot which starts at the base, and, working up through the centre of the bulb, soon destroys it. To a casual observer the exterior of the affected bulb (with the heart and centre en- tirely eaten away) may appear to be in per- fect condition. A bulb so infected cannot be cured and should never be planted for fear of spreading the disease.
Before planting bulbs of varieties that are especially liable to basal rot, they should be carefully examined. Press each bulb firmly near the base, between the thumb and fore- finger. A really sound, healthy bulb is firm, hard and unyielding. On the other hand, if it is soft and yielding, it is suspicious. These soft bulbs should not be planted near healthy stock. If a pinch higher up the bulb still develops a yielding softness, the presence of
ONE INSECT AND ONE DISEASE 95
basal rot well advanced is almost positively indicated. In such a case do not hesitate, take no risks, but destroy the bulb at once; and destroy means “‘burn.”’
The disease is favoured by heavy wet soils, highly manured soils and cold seasons. The remedy is to replant the bulbs in drier, warmer, higher ground, or in raised and bet- ter drained beds.
Fortunately all sections of the family are not equally liable to the disease and those most subject to basal rot are the white trum- pet varieties; it sometimes attacks the Leed- sii, jonquil and Tazetta groups, but only rarely does it attack any others.
THE NARCISSUS FLY
I am very glad to say that I have had no personal acquaintance with the narcissus fly (Merodon equestris). Indeed it does not seem to have done much, if any, damage in the United States. Possibly our winters are too cold for the fly which hails from southern climes. In England and Holland, however, this pest seems to have become acclimated and is doing considerable havoc among the
96 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
daffodils, and we in America may not long be immune from its attacks. Having had no actual experience with the fly, I quote in sub- stance from European authorities: Dr. J. R. Bos of Holland, and Rev. W. Wilks of Eng- land:
“The narcissus fly—nearly one half inch long and with wings expanded one inch across —is not unlike a small ‘bumble-bee’ though having only two wings and no sting. It hovers over the daffodil plants not unlike a humming bird, its wings moving as swiftly as it poses in one place for a minute or two— then suddenly it darts with lightning speed usually to the right or left, seldom straight ahead—making a sound between a shriek and a whistle, though of course, not so loud—yet great compared with the size of its author. It then settles down among the daffodil leaves and lays its eggs near the top of the bulb. It will probably lay 100 eggs at different times during its season from May to July. The eggs seem to hatch quickly, the little grubs finding their way in to the bulb when their destruc- tive work commences. There they live on the tissues and heart of the bulb until autumn
ONE INSECT AND ONE DISEASE 97
when they eat their way out and hibernate in the ground in chrysalis form until spring when the fly hatches out and begins its annual cycle.”
Imported bulbs of the lower priced cheaper grades may be to some extent infected. A blackish spot the size of a pin’s head near the shoulder of the bulb is suspiciously indicative that a grub has entered. If a similar and larger spot is found near the base of the bulb your suspicions are likely to be well founded, for it is customary for these grubs to make the second hole as an outlet for the frass.
Of course, to be on the safe side, you will destroy infected bulbs with their inhabitants and this is not any sacrifice, because only healthy bulbs will give perfect flowers. Where the flies do appear they are trapped on plates containing thick molasses in the centre with edges smeared with honey to attract them.
Of course, there are some other minor di- seases and troubles, but their total result amounts to practically nothing. As affecting the gardener, for whom this book is written they may be ignored, and so are dismissed with this bare reference.
CHAPTER IX
STRAIGHTENING DarropIL NOMENCLA- TURE AND CLASSIFICATION
Up to a hundred years ago, when there were comparatively few kinds or varieties in this now numerous family, the old system of naming—always descriptive—answered ad- mirably; but, with the advent of numer- ous intermediate types, perhaps combining the distinctive forms of both parents, and so to be classed with neither, something else became imperative. The old name “Pseudo-Narcissus albus aureus,” signify- ing the large yellow trumpet daffodil with white perianth petals, could now be applied to a dozen or more varieties, each one of which has a distinct individuality. After several fruitless efforts had been made to straighten out the nomenclature by retaining the old Latin names, light was at last shed by Mr. J. G. Baker, in 1869, whose arrange- ment of the genus into three main sub-divi-
98
NOMENCLATURE—-CLASSIFICATION 99
sions stands to-day. These are respectively magni-coronati, medio-coronati, and parvi- coronati, wittily interpreted into “long-nosed” “Short-nosed’”? and “‘snub-nosed,”” now com- monly spoken of as trumpet, cup and saucer.
(Editor’s Note: These three popular terms are intro- duced as being entirely logical and descriptive. The word “crown” that has sometimes been used to indicate the en- tire medio-coronati sub-division, is inadequate since it is a translation of part of the Latin designation of all three sub-divisions.)
Baker’s arrangement with a few modifica- tions received official approval at the Daffo- dil Conference of the Royal Horticultural Society held in London in 1884. The matter of future nomenclature was solved by the
adoption of the following resolution:
RESOLVED: “That in the opinion of this conference, uni- formity of nomenclature is most desirable, and that garden varieties of narcissus, whether known hybrids or natural seedlings, should be named or numbered in the manner adopted by florists and not in the manner adopted by botanists.”
Under this ruling all recent varieties are given English names, the Latin titles being retained for the old species, sub-species and wild hybrids.
To a very great degree, the botanical sub- divisions of the family agree with the garden
100 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
groups and they are conveniently considered in that light.
The genus Narcissus has species of two distinct types of foliage: flat-leaved, which characterises the trumpet daffodils as well as the poet’s and Tazetta narcissus; and the rush-leaved, which is found in jonquils, and which are thereby pretty well isolated into a distinct garden group.
For the practical man’s convenience, in the following chapters, the garden, or hor- ticultural significance of the types and sec- tions has been considered, rather than their exact botanical sequence, and the varieties are listed according to these artificial but prac- tical garden groups as follows:
GROUP I.—THE GIANT-TRUMPET OR AJAX DAFFODILS
Embracing all the one-flowered varieties having a cyclindrical, or funnel-shaped trum- pet at least three-quarters as long as the petals, which are spread horizontally, or are inclined forward; not deflexed. ‘These again are sub- divided as follows:
A.
B.
NOMENCLATURE—CLASSIFICATION IOI
Yellow Ajax; self yellow varieties derived from wild flowers of yellow N. Pseudo-Narcissus.
White Ajax; white petals and white or sulphur trum- pets; descendants from N. moschatus and the Pyrenean form, N. pallidus praecox, both of which are marked sub-species of N. Pseudo-Narcissus.
C. Bicolor Ajax; yellow trumpets and white petals; hy-
brids of the two preceding groups.
.
GROUP II.—THE LESSER TRUMPETS
Here are included two sections, Backhousei
and Humei, both of which, botanically con- sidered, belong with the trumpet daffodils, but for garden purposes are separated from the Ajax group, partly on account of size as they are both comparatively smaller.
N.
N.
Backhousei, hybrid of Ajax and N. incomparabilis. The trumpet often is as large as the petals and the crown itself often unflared, giving it a tubular appearance. There is considerable difficulty in the exact placing of this section, it being sometimes considered among large trumpet daffodils and at other times as belonging to the intermediate, or medium-crowned group which is composed entirely of hybrid forms between the first and third of Baker’s classification.
Humei and its varieties (“Dog-Eared Daffodils”) are garden hybrids between N. Pseudo-Narcissus and N. incomparabilis, flower drooping and petals inclined forward. In other respects the flowers of this section agree with Group I.
102 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
GROUP IJI.—THE HOOP-PETTICOAT DAFFO- DILS
A very distinct group, with conspicuous, wide-flaring trumpets and insignificant petals but the same colour as the trumpet; stamens deflexed, which does not occur in any other group; leaves rush-like.
All varieties of N. Bulbocodium (sometimes spoken of as N. Corbularia).
GROUP IV.—-CYCLAMEN-FLOWERED DAFFO- DILS
This is an artificial group, but is well marked from the horticultural standpoint, be- cause the petals in the three sections which comprise this group are reflexed. All have comparatively large trumpets.
A. N. cyclamineus; the yellow cyclamen-flowered daf- fodil (sometimes considered to be a sub-species of yellow Ajax). Sharply reflexed petals, so that the petals and trumpet form one continuous line; leaves flat. ;
B. N. Johnstoni; Johnston’s cyclamen-flowered daffodils. Wild hybrids between an Ajax variety and the follow- ing, N. triandrus. The flowers of this group are similar to those of the large trumpet varieties with
NOMENCLATURE—CLASSIFICATION 103
the exception of having reflexed petals; flat leaves.
C. N. triandrus; white cyclamen-flowered daffodil, or “Angel’s Tears’; two or three flowers to a_ stem. White with petals well reflexed; flowers small; leaves rush-like.
GROUP V.—MEDIUM-CROWNED HYBRIDS
This large group of cup daffodils is a most interesting one and corresponds practi- cally to the second division of Baker’s mono- graph “the medio-coronati.” In this we con- sider seven hybrid groups which are distin- guished by the proportionate length of the trumpet which is now shortened to a cup. All are hybrids between the larger-crowned, or trumpet daffodils and the smaller-crowned or saucer narcissus. The sections as here grouped are in relation to the diminishing size of the crown or cup.
A. N. incomparabilis; hybrid between yellow Ajax and N. poeticus; goblet-shaped crown one-third to three- quarters the length of the petals; colourjng, various.
B. N. Nelsoni; Nelson’s goblet-cupped, or “shortened bi- colour”; garden hybrids between bicolor Ajax and N. poeticus. White petals; goblet-shaped crown more than one-half the length of the petals.
C. N. Leedsiiy Leeds’ silver-winged star daffodils; hy- brids of white Ajax and N. poeticus. In ‘reality,
104 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
white and sulphur cupped forms of Barrii and incom- parabilis.
D. N. montanus; the drooping silver-starred narcissus; natural hybrid possibly of N. moschatus and N. poeti- cus. Flower drooping; star-like perianth, pure white; cup white.
E. N. Maclaei; a natural hybrid probably between bi- color Ajax and N. Tazetta, aptly described as “droop- ing baby bicolor.” Petals milk white, with bright golden-yellow crown two-thirds as long as the petals.
FN. Barrii,; garden hybrids of various forms; hybrids of N. poeticus and an Ajax variety, while a cross of N. poeticus and N. incomparabilis will yield flowers of both Barrii and Burbidgei forms. Flowers usually smaller than those of N. incomparabilis borne nearly erect; cup always yellow and usually orange-reddish rimmed, wide-mouthed and one-fourth to one-third the length of the star-like yellow, or pale yellow petals.
G. N. Bernardi; natural hybrid between N. abscissus (a yellow Ajax variety) and N. poeticus,; very variable; flowers with spreading white petals, twice as long as the yellow cup.
GROUP VI.—THE POET’S NARCISSUS
Late and comparatively late-flowered varie- ties in which the varieties of the white-petalled and fragrant poet’s narcissus, or hybrids which are marked by their shallow, saucer- like crowns, are included.
N. poeticus with its varieties. Distinguished by pure white petals surrounding a small, round, flattened,
NOMENCLATURE—CLASSIFICATION 105
saucer-like crown, not more than one-half the length of the petal and edged with carmine.
B. N. biflorus; hybrid of N. Tazetta and N. poeticus. Flowers like N. poeticus in form and colour, but with- out the red brim to the cup and borne in clusters of two or three. This is Parkinson’s “primrose peerless” daffodil.
C. N. Burbidgei; “dolly cup” narcissus; garden hybrid of N. incomparabilis and N. poeticus, closely resem- bling poeticus. Flowers borne singly; cup about one- fourth the length of the petals, and a trifle longer and not quite so flat as in N. poeticus; petals white, sulphur or yellow. Flowers earlier than poeticus.
D. N. Englehearti; Engleheart’s flat-crowned poet’s nar- cissus; hybrids of N. poeticus and N. incomparabilis, many of which have been separated from the Burbid- gei section and may be aptly described as Burbidgei forms with fluted, or ruffled flat cups.
GROUP VII.—THE JONQUILS AND CAMPER- NELLES
Rush-leaved, yellow, cluster-flowered and deliciously scented, small-growing species and varieties which show a great range of varia- tion in themselves, and about which there is considerable confusion, one authority (Eng- lish) holding that the true Campernelle vari- ety has a flaring cup, and another (Dutch), equally competent, asserting the Campernelle has a spreading cup. It is in this manner
106 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
stocks are mixed and nomenclature becomes confused.
A. N. Jonquilla; true sweet-scented jonquil; petals three to four times as long as the saucer-shaped shallow crown; though usually regarded as a species, has sometimes been supposed to be a hybrid between N. Tazetta and N. gracilis; very variable.
B. N. odorus; Campernelle or giant jonquil; considered to be a hybrid between yellow Ajax and N. Jonquilla; larger than the preceding, wider petals and more up- right cup, more widely flared.
C. N. gracilis; later flowering than the jonquil, opening yellow and fading with age. Petals spreading and imbricated. One to three flowered.
D. N. juncifolius; “baby jonquil’; the very smallest species, generally bearing three bright yellow flowers, petals well imbricated, about twice as long as the cup which is often widely expanded; very variable; petals about one-third of an inch long.
GROUP VIII.—THE TENDER, CLUSTER-FLOW- ERED NARCISSUS
Including all the cluster-flowered, flat- leaved species which are not reliably hardy in the North, but which may be grown outdoors in the South and are excellent for forcing.
A. N. Tazetta; remarkably variable; usually four to eight flowers; perianth segments white or yellow, well im- bricated and spreading horizontally; crown cup-
NOMENCLATURE—CLASSIFICATION I 07
shaped, relatively small and generally yellow but white in some forms; popularly known as the polyan- thus narcissus.
B. & C., N. orientalis: N. intermedius. These form a sub-section and which might be called “intermediate, cluster-flowered” narcissus. They are all natura} hybrids and so closely resemble the true Tazettas thay it is very difficult to separate them. More hardy, and the leaves of the N. intermedius group are more rush like than those of the true Tazettas. N. orientalis is supposed to be a hybrid between N. Tazetta and N. incomparabilis. Flat leaves.
GROUP IX.—HARDY CLUSTER-FLOWERED NARCISSUS
This group is likely to grow into consider- able importance through the acquisition of the new hybrids between N. poeticus and N. Tazetta.
A. N. poetaz; cluster-flowered hybrids of N. poeticus and N. Tazetta, having individual flower characters very closely resembling the former one in colour and size. A most remarkable recent acquisition in the family.
B. N. tridymus,; the long-crowned, cluster-flowered daffo- dils; hybrids between Ajax and N. Tazetta; individ- ual flowers resemble a small form of Nelsoni. They differ from all other cluster-flowered narcissus in the comparatively long crown.
108 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
GROUP X.—DOUBLE-FLOWERING NARCISSUS AND DAFFODILS
Double forms of species or varieties from any of the foregoing groups.
GROUP XI.—AUTUMN-FLOWERING NARCIS= SUS
A few curious species of little garden value.
[Norre—A botanical key to the species and sections of the genus Narcissus will be found in the Appendix, page 220.]
THE NAMED VARIETIES
In the following pages will be found de- scriptions of practically all the purchasable varieties of narcissus and daffodil, notes upon
_their importance as garden plants and ap- proximate prices at this writing (1907). Many of the very newest seedlings are not yet on the market and so are ignored, al- though some of them will no doubt supersede varieties now grown.
The catalogues of growers in Europe and
\e x eer. - THE POET’S NARCISSUS IN LANDSCAPE EFFECT
In conjunction with scenery, especially where water is used, the white poet’s narcissus will give most happy results. It prefers a heavy soil
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NOMENCLATURE—CLASSIFICATION 109
America have been thoroughly searched and the synonomy noted. For instance: ‘‘Abscis- sus” and “Muticus” represent the same vari- ety; “Emperor” and “Lorifolius Emperor” are the same; ‘‘Golden Spur” and “Spurius Golden Spur” are the same; “‘Grandis” and ‘““Grandee” are the same. ‘These different names for one variety are very bothersome to the beginner, as I know by experience.
If the name of a variety be known, but not its class, reference must be had to the index, where it will be found in alphabetical order.
EXPLANATION OF SIGNS.
In the discriptions of narcissus and daffo- dils which follow various signs will be noted following the name of the variety, the mean-
ings, of which are here explained:
The letters: A, B, C, D, E, and F, indicate the degree of earliness or lateness in flowering in the open under ordi- nary weather conditions, the wintry weather not unduly extended into spring to retard the earlies, nor the summer suddenly bursting forth and hastening the flowering of the late varieties. During normal seasons the difference in time of flowering between the A’s and B’s and C’s, etc., should be from a week to ten days. We can not give the exact time that flowers are due for all latitudes and altitudes so have followed dates noted in the author’s grounds near New York City. Allow six days later for every hundred
110 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
miles north and six days earlier for every hundred miles south, on sea level. The varieties may be expected to flower near New York
City as follows:
Those marked A during the first and second weeks of April.
Those marked B during the second and third weeks of April.
Those marked C during the third and fourth weeks of April.
Those marked D during the fourth week of April and first week of May.
Those marked E during the first and second weeks of May.
Those marked F during the second and third weeks of May.
The season may be considerably ex- tended by planting in special situations and by other cultural conditions (see pages 41 and 42) so that daffodils outdoors may in fact be had for over three months.
* Vigorous-growing, free-blooming; well suited for natur- alising. + Especially adapted for naturalising in partial shade or on slopes facing the north. {| For planting in gardens, herbaceous borders, etc., § For growing in pots, etc., for winter flowers. In regard to awards made to varieties, R. H. S. stands
for Royal Horticultural Society, and R. B. S. for Royal Bo- tanic Society, both of London, England.
CHAPTER X
Tue Larce Trumpet DaFFopILs
All varieties, regardless of size, belong to this group, if they have a tubular corona ex- panding trumpet-like at the mouth where it must be as broad as it is long; the trumpet not be less than three-quarters the length of the petals. This “large trumpet,” or daffodil, section is again sub-divided into three colour groups, viz: the “Ajax self,” or all yellow; the ‘Ajax bicolor,” or white winged yellow trumpets; and the “Ajax albino” or all-white varieties,
ALL YELLOW TRUMPETS
This group of more than 100 different named varieties has been developed from the wild N. Pseudo-Narcissus. The all-yellow trumpet varieties have greater adaptability to varying methods of cultivation in most cli- mates and soils than any other members of the family, are excellent for naturalising and for
winter forcing. IIir
T12 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
Asscissus. Syn: muticus. (D. 12 in. ¢ $2.50 hu.) A native of the French Pyrenees. Belongs to the broad- leaved lorifolius section and is one of the latest blooming of all trumpet daffodils. It is somewhat variable in size and form, though well-rogued cultivated strains usually produce large flowers with a much elongated trumpet of bright yellow and a sulphur-yellow perianth of twisted petals. It is a free pollen bearer and a parent of some of the best bi-colours. Well suited for naturalising. When mingled with the red-mouthed: poeticus types, flowering at the same time, they cross freely and produce many interesting hybrids, and, according to Mr. Max Leichtlin, “if we are to have scarlet daffodils this would be the beginning.”
AcHILLES. (B. 15 in. * $2.50 hu.) A native of Guernsey, very early and free flowering. A handsome flower with rich yellow trumpet and a sulphury-yellow perianth.
ADMIRAL MakarorF. (C. 20 in. § [$5 ea.) A new seed- ling, a fine large flower of the Emperor type: soft yellow trumpet, broad, smooth and straight with a wide-fluted mouth, perianth light yellow.
ApmirAL Toco. (C. 20 in. § $2 ea.) A handsome seedling of strong growth and free-blooming qualities. A bold flower with widely expanded golden trumpet and broad canary-yellow perianth: desirable for pot culture and borders.
Apa. (D. {soc ea.) A new seedling of strong growth, blooming very late. It produces a very large, finely-shaped flower with a long bright yellow trumpet and a soft canary-yellow perianth.
Atvarez. (D. 6 in. $3 doz.) A new seedling, the miniature of Emperor. A sturdy plant of dwarf growth producing dainty, rich yellow flowers of much substance.
Arp RicH. Syns: Irish King and Yellow King. (A 15 in. t$x doz.) An extra early flowering variety, a favourite for forcing and for naturalising. Freshly
LARGE TRUMPET 113
manured soils rich in vegetable humus it resents, thriving best in a well-drained, coarse loam, Under congenial conditions, it produces splendid large flowers with deep yellow perianths and large, rich yellow trum- pets. It is one of the earliest of all large trumpets to bloom. Annual lifting is advisable as it becomes dormant early, and new root action soon begins—replanting should therefore be done not later than September.
Bic Ben. (B. 21 in. § $2.50 ea.) One of the newer varieties ranking among the giant trumpets. The flowers measure about five inches across. Perianth sulphur yellow, trumpet yellow. A flower of good form and substance; a strong grower, free seeder, and very valuable for hy- bridising. Awarded certificate of merit by the Royal Botanic Society.
Campricus. (B. {$x.50 doz.) A Welsh Lent lily; an early flowering beautiful variety; a favourite for natural- ising in turf; perianth sulphur, trumpet yellow
Captain NELSON. (B. 13 in. § {[ $2.50 doz.) A large distinct and handsome early flower of soft, clear yellow; long incurving perianth petals; trumpet of gigantic size, long and spreading. A fine sort for pot and garden cul- ture: Awarded first-class certificate by the Royal Horti- cultural Society.
Cervantes. (A. 15 in. § $1.50 doz.) A remarkably early flowering form of Princeps which it resembles in form. It is fully as large in size though of rather a diff- erent colour being a uniform pale primrose in tone. It can be flowered by Christmas if desired, and is valuable as un early market flower.
C. H. Curtis, (C. 18 in. § [$1.50 ea.) A magnificent new variety similar to Monarch but much better; a very large flower of model form with a bold expanded trumpet ct golden yellow and a broad smooth perianth of deep primrose.
CieopaTRaA. (D. § {ff $25 ea.) Another new variety
T14 DAFFODILS——NARCISSUS
resembling Monarch. It is one of the largest and most perfectly formed of all the giant yellow trumpets. The trumpet is long, bold and of deep yellow: the perianth rich yellow, its petals broad and gathered at the base. Like all the largest flowering sorts it is late in blooming. Especially good for pots and borders. Awarded the certi- ficate of merit from Birmingham and also from the Royal dorticultural Society of England.
Coronatus. (B. 19 in. ¢ $5 doz.) An early flowering variety with a broadly expanded trumpet of rich yellow and a spreading light yellow perianth of wide petals. It thrives best in partially shaded situations, First-class certifi- cate, R. H. S.
CounTEss OF ANNESLEY. (A. 15 in. T§ [$1.50 doz.) A vigorous, extra early flowering Irish daffodil with a dis- tinctive large bold flower, trumpet of a rich golden yellow well expanded, serrated and flanged: perianth sulphur, yellow, imbricated and hooded. Good for pot and border culture and useful for naturalising, thriving best in par- thal shade.
Countess oF DesmonD. (B. 13 in. {$1.25 doz.) A de- sirable early free-flowering dwarf variety, producing a bold flower with a pale yellow trumpet, well flanged at the brim, and a perianth of soft primrose. Quite a gem when naturalised in the grass.
Crom-a-Boo, Syn: Crown Frilled. (A. 15 in. f 5o0c. ea.) An extra early flowering daffodil, found wild in Ireland. The trumpet is frilled or gathered the whole length. Colour, a self yellow. It thrives best when naturalised in partial shade.
Danie, Dewar. (B. * $1.50 doz.) A very early flower- ing daffodil, varying in colour from orange-yellow to cream white, this variation being often shown in one flower. It is a free seeder and splendid for naturalising in grass.
Deriance. (A, 21 in. $3 ea.) A new daffodil with light
LARGE TRUMPET I1§
yellow petals, and a beautifully twisted, large trumpet, golden yellow—well flanged at the brim.
Earty Birp. Syn: North Star. (A. §9 $2 doz.) Per- haps the earliest yellow daffodil in cultivation. It is ad- mirably adapted for forcing, and if potted in September may be had in flower at Christmas. Out of doors it blooms two to three weeks earlier than any other sort. The flower ‘is of medium size and resembles the Tenby in outline. The colour is full yellow, the perianth perhaps slightly lighter in shade.
Exiza Turck. (C. 11 in. § § * $1.50 doz.) A good-grow- ing, free-flowering dwarf variety, well suited for the front ef borders and edgings, for rock gardens and naturalising, as well as for pot culture. The flowers, of refined form, are of soft, uniform yellow.
Emperor. Syn: Lorifolius Emperor. (C. 21 in. § J * 60c. doz.) A universally admired variety. It is one of the best and largest of the all-yellow daffodils, deservedly popular for pot culture, forcing, naturalising and for use in borders. The flowers, borne on long stems, are of im- mense size, firm in substance and of well-balanced form. The broad trumpet is rich golden yellow, and the petals—~ broad and rounded—are but slightly Hghter in tone. It is a strong, healthy grower and a free bloomer, doing its best in a strong, rich, well-drained loam.
Excexsior. Syn: Spurius Excelsior. (B. 18 in. § 9 * $x doz.) A new extra large, early flowering, variety, similar ‘to Golden Spur, but richer in colour, being a deep self- yellow throughout; splendid for pot culture and for forcing, and is thought to be the forcing narcissus of the future.
Frep Moore. (C. 14 in. § $2 ea.) A new seedling; a handsome flower of much substance, with an immense deep golden trumpet, well expanded at the mouth. The broad petals are well formed and of light yellow. A grand variety for pot culture and for borders. Award of Merit, R. H. S.
116 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
Georce Puiiep Haypen. (C. 18 in. $125. ea.) A new variety, having a very large, extra good flower of splendid texture and refined form. ‘Trumpet, canary yellow, with large open mouth, fluted and flanged; perianth light yellow, the petals being broad and rounded. A strong grower, with wide foliage; flowers in mid-season.
Guory oF Lewen. (D. 14 in. § {| $2.50 doz.) Dubbed and truly “The King of Daffodils.” It is a giant seedling resembling, but superior to, Emperor, one of its parents. A strong grower, with massive flowers of great substance, boldly tilting upwards on strong stems, challeng- ing admiration and comparison with more modest semi- pendent flowering varieties. Glory: of Leiden, big and beautiful, seems conscious of its superiority in size, strength and durability. It comes unscathed through vicissitudes of unseasonable weather that dim the beauty of many more delicate sorts. It can always be depended upon as a “show flower,’”’ and to be the surprise and envy of daffodil-loving visitors. "The enormous trumpet is rich yellow, the petals vroad and rounded, of lighter shade with deeper yellow pencilings. For pot culture, flower beds and borders it is most effective. First-class certificate, R. H. S.
GoLpeN Bett. (A. 14 in. § ff *$z ea.) An extra-early and remarkably free-flowering daffodil, with broad, light yellow twisted petals and a large and prominent trumpet, with an open frilled mouth. It is a tall grower, and most adaptable for pot culture, borders and naturalising. First- ciass certificate, R. H. 8.
GoupeN Eacte. (B. § $1.50 doz.) A vigorous, early flowering, self-coloured variety of rich yellow. A splendid forcer and valuable for market.
GoLpEN Piover. Syn: Golden Princeps. (B. 14 in. §]* 75c. doz.) An early flowering Irish daffodil having a tich yellow trumpet and perianth. It is of the same habit and nearly as early as Ard Righ, with a strong, vigorous constitution. Easily forced for cut flowers, and as it seeds
LARGE TRUMPET TI7
freely is a desirable variety for gardens and naturalising.
GOLDEN Prince. (B. 16 in. $4 doz.) An early flower-
ing daffodil of a uniform golden yellow. The trumpet is lobed and serrated at the brim. Foliage broad and leek like. y GOLDEN Spur. Syn: Spurius Golden Spur. (A. 18 in. *§ {soc doz.) A native of the Netherlands. An extra early free-flowering variety that is a great favourite with the writer, who if he could have but one daffodil would choose this. It is not the biggest, nor yet the most beauti- ful, but when you plant a dozen bulbs of it you gre pretty sure to get eighteen to twenty-four flowers all large, perfect and as richly coloured as the most fastidious grower could desire. Golden Spur has a vigorous constitution, is easily forced in flats, flowers beautifully in pots, and is perfectly at home in the garden border; and when naturalised, seeds freely and increases correspondingly. The flowers of large size have a spreading megaphone-like trumpet with grace- fully rolled brim, perianth large and open. The colour, a self-yellow, is almost as deep as that of maximus.
Hamter. (C. 18 in. §§ $1.50 ea.) A handsome new variety after the style of Emperor, with a bold, well-formed yellow trumpet, and a large broad, flat, light yellow peri- anth,
Henry Irvine. Syn: Spurius Hy, Irving. (A. 18 in. § [ * 50c doz.) A native of the Netherlands and a fine type of spurius major, with handsome flowers of great substance. . Trumpet, rich golden yellow, wide and recurved at the mouth. Perianth, broad, spreading and of clear yellow. Ex- cellent for forcing, pot culture, growing in borders and nat- uralising in grass. It thrives best in sandy, gritty loam, and like all of the “spuriue” class, can be injured by kind- ness; that is, given a soil too freshly manured.
Her Majesty. (B. 15 in. $1.50 doz.) An early flowering light, self yellow, expanding trumpet, beautifully serrated at the brim.
118 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
Hon. Mrs, Jocetyn. (D. 19 in. § [$x ea.) A new and but is a free producer of large flowers elegantly formed, and of a uniform rich golden yellow; perianth, large and winged, the petals being longer than the straight crown or trumpet, which is elegantly serrated at the brim. Well suited for both pot and border cultivation.
IsoLtpE. (D. 20 in. § [$50 ea.) A new daffodil having a handsome large flower with a bold campanulate light yellow perianth, which sometimes measures five inches across; trumpet long and of soft yellow. This is a good late flowering variety for both pot and border culture.
IvaNHOoE. (C. ro in. § J $1.50 ea.) A new variety of rich uniform lemon yellow. It is similar to John Nelson, but of better quality.
Joun Bricut. (A. §$2 doz.) Of Dutch origin, be- longing to the spurius family. It is of dwarf spreading rich yellow colour. The petals incurve towards the trumpet, of distinct clear yellow. Excellent for pot culture and forcing.
Joun Netson. (C. ro in. §§*$5 doz.) A very dis- tinct late flowering dwarf variety, of an almost uniform rich yellow color. The petals incurve towards the trumpet, forming a large rounded flower, which droops and nods al- most to the surface like Mrs. J. B. M. Camm, Colleen Bawn, and others of its class. For pot and border cultivation and for naturalising it is especially adapted.
Kinc ALrrep. (B. 24 in. § f $15 ea.) A new | daffodil, perhaps the most beautiful of all yellow trumpets; free and early flowering. The flowers are not only of im- mense size but are of noble form and great substance. The trumpet is extra large and elegantly frilled at the mouth. The colour is a deep rich maximus yellow. The plant, which has bluish green foliage, is strong, vigorous and healthy, and grows two feet high. It is a superb variety for exhibition, pot and border culture. First-class certifi-
LARGE TRUMPET TIg
cate, R. H. S.; Award of Merit, R. B. S., and Premier Prize Midland Daffodil Society.
Kinc Humpert. Syn: King Umberto. (B. + $2.50 hu.) A wild, early flowering Italian daffodil of robust growth, Desirable for naturalising in shaded places, and also amen- able to forcing. Trumpet yellow, perianth, paler in colour with darker yellow stripes through the centre of each petal.
Lapy HELEN VINCENT. (C. 13 in. § ($6 ea.) A com- paratively new, large trumpet variety, with flowers of re- fined form and good substance; blossoming in mid-season. Colour, a uniform, soft and clear yellow; excellent for pot and border cultivation. Award of Merit, R. H. S,
Lapy Wittes. (C. 14 in. §/*$3 doz.) A handsome, strong-growing, free-blooming daffodil, with bold yellow trumpet, having a deeply flanged open mouth. Perianth light yellow. Adaptable for both pot and garden culture.
Lorna Doone. (B. rs in. $4 ea.) A distinct new variety of richest canary yellow. Trumpet long, tube-like and beautifully fluted. Erect habit. Foliage broad, resem- bling that of Emperor.
Lorp Roserts. (C. 23 in. § [$20 ea.) A new giant- flowering variety, and one of the grandest of all yellow trumpet daffodils. Broad and massive petals and a noble trumpet, all of a rich uniform golden yellow. A strong, tall grower and blooms freely in mid-season. Awarded first-class certificate, R. H. S., Midland Daffodil Society, and Cornwall Daffodil Society, etc.
Lorirotius. <A section with broad, flat, massive foliage best represented in the varieties Abscissus (Muticus), Em- peror, P. R. Barr, Rugilobus, etc.
Major. (C. §§*s50c. doz.) The true Trumpet Major has a handsome large flower of rich golden yellow, nearly as deep as Maximus. It is a mid-season variety, effective for pot culture; also for borders and naturalising where conditions suit it, otherwise a shy bloomer. Tens of thou- sands, perhaps millions of bulbs, are annually sold under
I20 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
the name of “Trumpet Major,” most of them for forcing. To the best knowledge of the writer the majority of these are the following:
Major Spurius, (A. §}$2.50 hu.), also known as Early Flowering Major, Early ‘Trumpet Major, and Spurius Major, is in reality a type of Single Van Sion. A splendid winter forcer, and valuable for cut flowers. Similar in form to the true Trumpet Major, but somewhat smaller and lighter in colour. Spurius Major is two to three weeks—some claim four weeks—earlier.
Maximus, or Trumpet Maximus (B. 18 in. § {[ * 75¢. doz.) is the recognised peer in colouring among yellow daffodils, being intense golden-orange throughout. The ,eputation of any daffodil approaching “maximus colour” is establish- ed. Unfortunately, perfection in everything is never centred in any one individual, animal or plant, and N. Maximus is no exception. While the flower is of grand size, form and colour, with an immense, beautifully formed, well-opened recurve-brimmed trumpet and large, gracefully twisted petals, it has one fault—shy blooming, or not blooming at all, excepting under congenial conditions. Those who supply these conditions will glory in the result. The bulbs of N. Maximus require to be planted not less than five inches deep in well-drained (and if possible, trenched) strong rich loam, with some very old rotted manure below—not in contact with—the bulbs. The prong-like roots start early in the fall down deep in the soil. If the bulbs can be planted in August—and the roots find their desired food —magnificent flowers may be expected, on stems two to three feet high.
MAXIMUS SUPERBUS LONGIVIRENS. Syn: Maximus of the Pyrenees. (B. 18 in. §§ *$2 doz.) The characteristics of this variety so closely resemble those of the variety just described that the writer has been unable to appreciate any distinguishing differences in comparative tests covering several years. It may be that under other conditions of
LARGE TRUMPET 121
soil or climate, Maximus-longivirens might prove the cata- loguers’ claims of superiority, viz.: “Earlier in flowering, a freer bloomer and of richer orange-yellow colouring.” The added name “longivirens” (meaning long-lived foli- age) applies, as far as my experience goes, to both varieties, the leaves remaining green a month longer than the foliage of other varieties.
Mikapo. (C. 15 in. § $3 ea.) A handsome, large fiowering new seedling of the Maximus style. Colour, gold- en-yellow. Trumpet, very large, open-mouthed and deeply flanged at the brim. Petals, gracefully twisted. A mid- season free-flowering variety.
Minor. Syn: Trumpet Minor, Nanus minor, Dutch minor, etc. (A. 7 in. + $2.50 hu.) This is the single form of the double-flowering Rip Van Winkle. Minor is a very dwarf, very early and very small flowering type, a perfect “baby daffodil,” valuable for edgings, rock work and for naturalising. It increases rapidly, thriving best in shaded locations. The trumpet, expanded and distinctly lobed, as well as the gracefully twisted petals are of rich yellow.
Minimus. Syx: Nanus minimus. (A. 3 in. ¢ 75c. doz.) This pigmy, the smallest and most dwarfed trumpet daffo- dil known, grows only three inches high, producing dainty, perfectly formed flowers, not exceeding one inch from tip to tip of perianth. The colour of both trumpet and perianth is rich yellow. This quaint lilliputian is a gem for edgings, rock work and naturalising, and if grown in a pot, gives a most charming effect. It thrives in peaty soil or sandy, gritty loam.
M. J. BerKevey. (B. 17 in. §[/*$z doz.) A magnifi- cent large and early flowering variety, rich yellow colour, the flower resembling that of -Maximus but slightly lighter in tone. The trumpet is large, well expanded and reflexed at the brim; the petals are better formed than those of Maximus. Popular for pot and border cultivation and naturalising.
122 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
MonarcH. Syn: Golden Giant. (C. 20 in. §] $5 ea.) A noble flower, large, of model form, good substance, one of the best of the yellow trumpets. Large trumpet and perianth, both of full rich yellow; a strong, sturdy grower, flowering in mid-season. Superb for pot and border cul- ture.
Morninc Star. (B. $1.50 doz.) An early flowering dwarf variety, with a deep yellow trumpet and a pale yellow perianth.
Mrs. H. J. ELwes. (B. 17 in. $2 doz.) Very early flowering variety with large trumpet. Entire flower soft, clear yellow.
Nanus. Syn: Nanus Major: Lobularis Neerlandicus. (A. 6 in. ¢ $1.50 doz.) Closely similar to Dutch minor, with possibly a trifle larger flower. A very dwarf, extra early flowering variety, blooming with chinodoxas, scillas and crocus, and is a pretty companion for such early flowering bulbs. Yellow trumpet and lighter yellow perianth. In Ireland it is popularly called the Earth Star, “its flowers be- spangle the earth like golden stars.” It grows about six inches high, thriving best in partial shade, and is a gem for naturalising and edgings.
OpvaLuaris, (A. t2 in. ¢ J § soc. doz.) The old “Ten- by” daffodil, long popular for its many good qualities. A distinct extra early variety of stiff upright habit. Flow- ers full rich yellow, the trumpet short but well expanded, petals broad and well rounded. It forces well, is excellent in pots and thrives when naturalised in shaded positions.
OBVALLARIS PALLIDUS, Syn: Buttercup. (A. 12 in. § $x doz.) The pale primrose-coloured form of the Tenby daffodil. Extra early, a beauty in pots, and superb for naturalising in grass.
Oonau. (B. § ¢ $2 doz.) A very early flowering bright canary-yellow self; a new seedling with flowers of lasting quality. A free seeder.
LARGE TRUMPET 123
OPHELIA. ($1.50 ea.) Seedling from Emperor. Flowers neatly hooded and of refined form. Colour, rich canary yellow.
Opuir. ($3 doz.) A long barrel-shaped trumpet of rich golden yellow. A good market variety. Dwarf.
OTHELLO. (E. ro in. § ff *$1.50 ea.) A new seedling with a broad campanulate, primrose-yellow perianth and a rich yellow trumpet. A flower of good subsiance. A dwarf, sturdy grower. Very late.
Put May. (C. §§$4ea.) A new variety with large bold straight yellow trumpet and paler yellow perianth. A strong, sturdy grower for pots and borders, flowering in mid-season.
P. R. Barr. (D. 16 in. §[* soc doz.) <A splendid late- flowering Emperor-like variety of sturdy growth and free- flowering qualities. The flowers are of good form and very large. Trumpet, rich yellow; perianth, primrose yel- low. A valuable variety for anything and recciamended for flower beds, borders and for naturalising in grass.
PrIncE GeEorGE. (C. 16 in. $2.50 ea.) A very well- formed flower, with a long, soft, yellow trumpet and a primrose-yellow perianth. Sturdy grower.
QUEEN oF HoLLAND. ($1 ea.) Very large. Both trum- pet and perianth sulphur yellow.
RANGER JOHNSON. (D. 15 in. 8 $5 ea.) A new late- flowering variety. Flower is large, of refined form and good substance. Colour a uniform soft yellow. Trumpet large and elegantly flanged at the brim.
Ray SMITH. (16 in. §f[s0c ea.) A graceful flower ef uniform rich yellow colour, the flower large, of good substance. The petals gracefully twisted and tapering. A free bloomer and a strong grower, with broad deep glaucous blue foliage.
Recina Marcuerira. (B. 75c doz.) Very early flower- ing, with a deep yellow trumpet and lighter perianth with golden stripes in the petals.
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Rev. D. R. Wittiamson. (§ {| $2.50 ea.) A new seed- ling with a long, handsome rich yellow trumpet and lighter yellow petals. A bold, handsome flower.
Rucitosus. Syns: Rugilobus lorifolius. Pseudo-rugilo- bus. (B. 15. in. [* 50c doz.) A most useful low-priced daffodil, not unlike a small Emperor, but earlier. A standard variety for cutting, the flowers being of good substance and travel well. Trumpet rich yellow, furrowed or fluted, perianth sulphur yellow.
SABRINA. (${[ $50.00 ea.) A handsome new variety with a bold stiff pale yellow trumpet well flanged at the mouth; perianth cream colored.
SANTA Maria, (A. 14 in. $1.50 doz.) Very early flowering, remarkably distinct and graceful. Perianth charmingly twisted, and of great substance. Colouring very deep orange yellow.
SHAKESPEARE. (C. §{[75c ea.) Bold and erect with an immense deep golden yellow trumpet, the longest of any daffodil. Petals, sulphur yellow, large and broad.
SHIRLEY HrpBerd. (ff 50c doz.) Distinct free flowering with a much expanded deep yellow trumpet and perianth of light yellow. Remains in bloom for seven to cight weeks.
SpreaD EAcue. (E. ff $1.50 doz.) A magnificent new variety, very late, with large deep rich yellow flowers. The petals are gracefully twisted: a flower of much sub- stance, therefore well suited for cutting. Strong, vigorous grower with dark green foliage.
SpRIcHTLY. (B. § {[ * $3.50 doz.) Strong free grower with brilliant golden-yellow flowers of medium size. Trumpet open at the mouth, and prettily frilled. Foliage deep blue-green.
Spurius. Syns: Single Van Sion of the Dutch: telamon- ius of English Gardens. (A. § {+ 3s5c doz.) Very early free flowering. Good sized flowers of soft yellow; trumpet well expanded; perianth hooded. Very useful for forcing,
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Pirate XVI
ALL-YELLOW TRUMPET DAFFODIL
Glory of Leiden, one of the handsomest of the large trumpet section ; all yellow, trumpet rich yellow, perianth pale ycllow, sometimes with deeper yellow markings
LARGE TRUMPET 125
garden culture, and naturalising. Popular on account of its satisfactory qualities and low price. There are several forms of spurius resulting, no doubt, from differing en- vironments and selection. Spurius major and spurius major Blondin, spurius excelsior, spurius Golden Spur, and spurius Henry Irving are improvements, All narcissus of spurius blood are impatient of too rich or freshly ma- nured soil, and can be killed by kindness. They thrive best in gritty loam or turf and in partial shade.
Tuomas Moore. (B. 75c doz.) A deep yellow trumpet with clear yellow perianth: said to be similar and better than Trumpet Major.
ToTreENHAM YELLOW. (B. §{75c doz.) The outline of the flower resembles that of a small Maximus; trumpet deep yellow, perianth of lighter tone the petals being gracefully twisted, very early and fine for pot culture.
Tuscan BONNET. (75c doz.) A pale straw-coloured form of Princeps, distinct and beautiful flower of bold out- line. ;
Van Waveren’s Giant. (C. §{ $25. ea.) A magnifi- cent new variety—probably the largest trumpet daffodil yet introduced, bright yellow trumpet with a very large open mouth flanged at the brim: perianth light yellow and of rather campanulate form, flower of great substance, very tall grower; late.
Witte Barr. (15 in. § *$3 doz.) A strong growing daffodil producing’ perfectly shaped flowers of much sub- stance: an elegantly brimmed trumpet of deep yellow and a campanulate perianth of soft and clear yellow.
ALL WHITE TRUMPETS Descended from the very rare wild white
forms of Pseudo-Narcissus, particularly the Pyrenean types moschatus and _pallidus-
126 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
precox. As a class they are more delicate in constitution than their self-yellow and bi- colour brethren, requiring conditions akin to those in which their mountain-loving ances- tors thrive; viz: partial shade, in well under- drained soil of gritty loam and decayed leaf mould. There are now fully 50 named varie- ties, varying in colour from all pure white to palest sulphur.
Axpicans, Syns: Silver Trumpet, Sulphur Trumpet, Dutch Moschatus. (B. 14 in. §f/*75c doz.) This is a large form of the native Spanish moschatus and is scme- times known as the Large White Spanish daffodil. A strong grower. Early and free bloomer, bearing large handsome musk-scented flowers with white perianth and a long trumpet prettily recurved at the brim. It opens straw colour but soon changes to white.
Auice Kyicuts. (A. 12 in. § {$8 ea.) A new variety and the earliest of all white trumpets. Good substance, lasting well whether cut or on the plant. Perianth white, trumpet cream white of elegant form with an open mouth prettily filled. Good constitution and a free bloomer. Award of Merit, R. H. S.
Apricot. (C. 16 in. 8] 75c ea.) A new and remarkably beautiful variety with a colouring heretofore unknown among narcissus, the long straight trumpet being of a rosy apricot hue, though opening creamy buff in strong con- trast to the pure white perianth. The flower is of good size and form. Delightfully fragrant. Plant healthy, vigorous. Several certificates and awards of merit are to its credit.
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ATALANTA. ($100 ea.) A new. seedling with broad snow white perianth petals and a long, pure white bell-shaped trumpet.
AVALANCHE. ($150. ea.) A very elegant new seedling with broad petals of pure white, curving towards the trumpet which is long and straight and also of pure white.
Cecitia DE GraaFF. (D. 20 in. $1 ea.) A new seedling cf interesting form. The medium-sized flower has an elegantly spreading channelled trumpet recurved at the brim. Colour, creamy-white; the perianth is also creamy- white with a yellowish line running through each petal.
Cernuus. (A. tf $x doz.) The Silvery Swan’s Neck daffodil, so called from the graceful poise of the pendent flower. Very distinct. Early flowering. Perianth silvery white, trumpet cream white passing to white. The petals and trumpet are of the same length. Best when grown in shade.
CERNUUS PULCHER. (B. 16 in. § 9 $2.50 doz.) The large Silver White Swan’s Neck daffodil. A somewhat larger form of the preceding and a little later in flower- ing, but classed among the earlies. The gracefully droop- ing flower composed of broad and spreading petals of pure white and a long, expanding trumpet opening primrose but changing to silvery white. A strong grower.
CoLLEEN Bawn. (A. 15 in. § ft $4 doz.) A gem among white daffodils, silvery-white drooping, nodding flowers. Gracefully twisted petals. Best when grown in shade and grass.
Cora PLemp. ($1.25 ea.) A new seedling with white flowers of light primrose colour, passing to white.
C. W. Cowan. (C. 16 in. § [$1.50 doz.) <A distinct short, thick set albino. An elegant flower with white peri- anth and a sulphur trumpet passing to white. A strong grower and free bloomer.
DucHess OF CONNAUGHT. (B. 11 in. 75c doz.) A neat
128 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
habited plant well suited for small beds, etc.—bearing dainty flowers of light primrose colour, passing to white.
Ducuess oF Normanby. (B. § {[$3 ea.) A new early variety with a long white beautifully ribbed trumpet, mouth open and flanged. Petals of white, fairly broad, slightly shouldered, and twisting. Delicately scented.
Dr. Hocc. ($3 ea.) Perianth white; trumpet sulphur passing to white. First-class certificate.
Exauisire. ($2 ea.) <A tall-growing, early-flowering albino with sulphur white petals, and a primrose trumpet maturing white. :
F. W. Bursiwce. ($2 doz.) Strong and vigorous, with an elegantly serrated long trumpet of sulphur passing to white and a white perianth.
Grace Darinc. (B. 20 in. §f $1 ea.) A strong-grow- ing, free-flowering new seedling of great beauty: the petals of pure white are gracefully twisting and overlap the elegant trumpet of light sulphur maturing white.
HatrietD Beauty, (C. 21 in. $15 ea.) A bold and showy new variety with creamy-white perianth and a light canary trumpet well expanded and flanged at the mouth.
Henri Vitmorin. (C. 13 in. $f] $125. ea.) A magnifi- cent new white daffodil that scores high on all points. Re- fined texture and form, the perianth of Empress shape spreading 434 inches across: the trumpet is long and of good substance. Award of Merit, R. H. S.
Jenny \WoopHouse. ($3 doz.) Best described as a white obvallaris or Tenby daffodil. Trumpet beautifully imbricated and flanged. A free seeder. A small shapely daffodil for the buttonhole.
Lapy Auprey. (D. §§ $25 ea.) A new late-flowering variety of great beauty; perianth white, slightly cam- panulate and a straight, bold creamy-white trumpet widen- ing at the mouth. Award of Merit, Birmingham.
Lapy oF THE Snows. (D. $125 ea.) A large and beautiful new seedling with a broadly roundcd white
LARGE TRUMPET 129
perianth—and a well-formed, white trumpet well-frilled at the brim.
Laby Grosvenor. (75c doz.) White perianth and sul- phur white trumpet.
Lapy Somerset. (C. 12 in. § [$2 ea.) A new seedling of strong growth with long-stemmed pure white flowers. Petals long and gracefully twisting; trumpet very long.
Lapy Sypit. (A. 1x in. {* $x ea.) A new variety with flowers of medium size and of uniform pale sulphur colour. The open-mouthed short trumpet is prettily flanged.
L’INNOCENCE. (C. 20 in. $x ea.) A magnificent daffo- dil with purest white perianth, and broad straight trumpet of sulphur passing to white.
Lismore. (B. rg in. §§ $3 ea.) Strong constitution. Perianth white with a faint suggestion of green. Trumpet sulphur white. First prize at Truro.
LoveLiness. (D. 14 in. § § $125 ea.) A new and highly recommended seedling, producing very large flowers. Petals broad, smooth, stiff and snowy white. Trumpet of elegant form well expanding to the mouth and also white. Award of Merit at Birmingham and also at Truro.
MapaME De GraarF. (D. 16 in. § {| $7.50 doz.) This magnificent seedling ranks front of all white daffodils, The flowers, while unusually large for an albino, are of splendid substance and unsurpassed in grace of carriage and elegance of form. The fully expanded flower is pure white, though in opening the trumpet usually shows a tinge of sulphur. A strong grower, free bloomer, and equally well suited for pot or garden culture. First- class certificate, R. H. S.
MarcHIONEss OF LoRNE. (B. 12 in. | *$1 doz.) Not unlike Princess Ida, periafth sulphur white, trumpet prim- rose and elegantly recurved.
Matson VinceNT. (D. 14 in. ${[ $2.50 doz.) Strong- growing, late-flowering, with a neat, small, pure white flower, the trumpet being well expanded and lobed.
130 DAFFODILS——-NARCISSUS
Moscuatus. (A. 6 in. + $4 hu.) A wild sub-species of N. Pseudo-Narcissus found in the Pyrenees and especially plentiful in places on the Spanish side of these mountains. 1t varies in size, form and colour accordingly as influenced by natural hybridisation when growing in proximity to other native types. In its purest form it is of dwarf habit with rather small flowers. The whitest of all trumpet daffodils when fully open, but of a sulphur tinge in the bud and expanding stages. It is very early in flowering and, like most wild types, quite at home when naturalised; a grassy slope facing north being especially congenial. In cultivation many selections have been made from “mos- chatus” which are catalogued under various names as albicans, moschatus of Haworth, etc., and it is the opinion of the writer that many if not all varieties of the so-called white trumpet daffodils owe their varying degrees of trumpet whiteness, directly or indirectly, to the predomi- nance of moschatus blood.
MoscHaTus oF HawortH. (A. 6 in. $75c doz.) A charming dwarf small-flowering variety, a selection from the preceding with charming, purest white flowers. A gem for naturalising.
Mrs. J. BELL CAMM. (D. 12 in. * $2 doz.) An exceed- ingly handsome late variety of vigorous growth, produc- ing large flowers that nod to the ground. Lasting well when cut. Perianth white, the trumpet sulphur white. First-class certificate, R. H. S. (Do not confound this, as the writer did at first, with Mr. J. Bell Camm, the bi- colour.)
Mrs. BetrripcE. (C. 12 in. $15 ea.) Very large flower with white, prettily twisted petals and cream-coloured trumpet, well expanded, fluted, and flanged at the brim.
Mrs. Bursioce. A vigorous grower with large flower, opening sulphur but passing to white.
Mrs. Geo. H. Barr. (D. § {$125 ea.) A very lovely new white daffodil of exquisite form: pétals slightly curv-
LARGE TRUMPET I31
ing towards the well-formed open-mouthed trumpet. Award of Merit, Birmingham.
Mrs. THompson. (B. 14 in. § ff * $x doz.) A hand- some extra early strong grower of good shape and sub- stance and a free bloomer. Flowers large and pure white, the trumpet being elegantly frilled. One of the earliest of the moschatus section.
Mrs, VINCENT. (D. 12 in. § [$2.50 ea.) A rare beauty of perfect form and of great substance. Perianth and trumpet pure white. Good grower but late.
PALLIDUS PRAECOX. (A. 12 in. ¢ 60c doz.) The earliest ef all white trumpet daffodils and very popular. Varies slightly in form and colouring, but usually the perianth is pure white and the trumpet pale straw colour. When grown in partial shade it comes pure white. Natural- ised on moist grassy slopes facing north it is perfection. Avoid manure.
PeTer Barr. (C. 16 in. § + $250 ea.) All reports indi- cate that this is the most beautiful white trumpet daffodil yet raised. The writer has not grown it nor seen it. It is likely that in a few years the increase will be such that the price will fall within the reach of ordinary people.
The English “Gardeners’ Chronicle’s” description in sub- stance is as follows: “PETER Barr is not the only white Ajax or large trumpet variety that has been raised, but it is certainly the best and much the best...... In colour the flower is described as white, but it must be understood that by this is not meant the pure white which is seen in Nar- cissus poeticus. No trumpet daffodil is yet so pure, but Peter Barr is the very palest sulphur-white, the perianth being a shade purer than the trumpet. It is said to have been raised from Monarch and Madame De Graaff, and will be a fitting memorial to a man whose life has been spent in developing and popularising the daffodil.”
The raiser’s description reads thus: “The finest white trumpet daffodil yet raised. It is of distinct and elegant form
132 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
having 2 beautiful pure white shouldered perianth and a large handsome trumpet almost pure white. The flower is large and bold—of beautiful symmetry and fine sub- stance. It is a strong grower and a free bloomer with handsome deep bluish green foliage. First-class certifi- cate, R. H. S.
Princess Ipa. (B. 14 in. §§ $2 doz.) A distinct strong- growing free-blooming early white variety with a silvery trumpet edged at the brim with yellow. A good grower and charming in pots.
Rowena. (B. 13 in. § {$3 doz.) A new robust free- blooming seedling with spreading star-like petals of snowy white and a large trumpet, silvery-white flushed peach, expanding to the brim.
Sir STAFFORD NorTHcoTe, (B. 15 in. * $1.50 doz.) A strong-growing free-blooming early variety with a silvery- white perianth and a long pale sulphur trumpet. Good for naturalising and for borders.
SNOWFLAKE. (B. 14 in. §§ $4 doz.) Early flowering strong-growing with distinct and handsome flowers holding their heads well up. Perianth white, trumpet soft apricot passing off white. Certificate of Merit, R. H. S.
SuLpHuR Kino. (C. 12 in. §§ $2 ea.) New seedling producing in mid-season a well-formed flower of good substance. Perianth pale sulphur, long trumpet of soft sulphur yellow.
Torruosus. (A. 1g in. § {ft $2.50 doz.) A popular, vigorous, extra early flowering form often called “The Swan’s Neck Daffodil” from the graceful pendent poise of the flowers. Selections have been catalogued under the names of Leda, Sarnian Belle, etc., but any distinctiveness claimed for these has apparently merged back to the type until their “variety names” have become merely synonyms. All, in fact, belong to the variable moschatus group. Tortuosus being distinguished by its long trumpet of pale
LARGE TRUMPET 134
sulphur and gracefully twisted petals of pure white. The flowers are delightfully musk scented.
WILLIAM Gotprinc. (C. 16 in. § ff ¢$x doz.) A droop- ing Swan’s Neck daffodil of good constitution, with long tapering petals of pure white, gracefully curving over the primrose tinged white trumpet.
W. P. Miner. Syns: Minnie Warren, nanus albus. (B. tr in. § ff *$z.25 doz.) Dwarf, of good constitution, es- pecially effective for small beds, edgings, naturalising in grass and a lovely thing to plant permanently in rock work, The dainty little flowers of cowslip fragrance are freely produced; creamy-white out of doors but pure white when grown inside. It seeds freely.
TWO-COLORED TRUMPETS—WHITE WINGED OR BI-COLOUR
Hybrids between the all-yellow and the all-white trumpet daffodils. They have “white wings,’ or petals, and yellow trum- pets. Healthy vigorous growers, thriving in the garden border, in pots, or naturalised.
Apa Brooke. (D. 15 in. §f[50c doz.) A late free blooming variety flowering after Empress and before Gran- dis, Trumpet orange yellow, perianth creamy-white. A strong grower and valuable for cutting.
Bicotor. ($1.50 doz.) The type, dwarf and late flower- ing. Rich yellow trumpet and broad pure white petals.
Bicotor oF HawortH. (E. 13 in. ¢ $1.50 doz.) Con- taining abscissus blood—and like the latter—among the latest to bloom. The flowers last into June if grown in partial shade. Trumpet rich yellow, perianth pure white. In outline the flowers resemble the elegantly formed earlier flowering Horsfieldi.
134 DAFFODILS——-NARCISSUS
Brevirtos. ($2.50 hu.) Neat habit, small, early to bloom. Increases rapidly. Golden yellow trumpet and sulphury- white perianth.
Capecetras. (C. 15 in. $3 hu.) A Spanish daf- fodil, showy and handsome, with large rich yellow trumpet frilled at the brim, and a white perianth shading to primrose at the base.
Carpurnia. (D. 15 in. § $25 ea.) A long straight trumpet of soft primrose yellow and bell-formed perianth of white. New.
CaMEOENS, Syn: Lusitanica. ($3 doz.) An early peculiarly formed and distinct bi-colour from Portugal; yellow trumpet and sulphur-white perianth.
Cyenet. (D. §f[ $100 ea.) New, and a beauty, long bold trumpet of canary-yellow. Elegantly reflexed at the mouth. Petals white, bold, broad and gracefully twisted. Award of Merit, R. H. S. and Birmingham.
Dainty Mam. ($1.50 ea.) A very dwarf new bi-colour of handsome form.
DeaN HERBERT. Syn: primulinus. (D. 18 in. $1.50 doz.) Of distinct, stiff, erect habit; vigorous grower. Trump- et large, rich yellow; perianth primrose changing to sul- phur white.
Duke oF Beprorp. (B. 22 in. § [$10 ea.) Exception- ally large flowers measuring 4% inches from tip to tip of the pure white perianth, with a great broad trumpet of clear soft yellow measuring 234 inches across at the mouth: a flower of splendid proportions, form and substance. It flowers early, opening even before Horsfieldi and has a pleasing fragrance. First-class certificates, Birmingham, Manchester, Edinburgh.
Empress. (C. 20 in. §{/*60c doz.) This and Hors- fieldi rank among the high-class bicolors, both being free, early and reliable producers of large well-formed flowers of good substance. They thrive under most conditions where any sort of daffodil can be expected to grow—in
LARGE TRUMPET 135
garden borders, naturalised in grass, in pots, bowls of moss and water, or forced in flats for cut flowers in winter. These many merits in conjunction with the reasonable price of their bulbs render both sorts most popular. Empress resembles Horsfieldi closely, is a little later in blooming, perhaps, a little more stiff and robust in growth with not quite as white perianth petals—and a rich yellow trumpet.
E. T. Coox. (14 in. $30 ea.) New. Broad, bold peri- anth of white and a rich chrome-yellow trumpet.
GRANDEE. Syns: bicolor maximus, grandis. (E. 12 in. §]1*40c. doz.) Late flowering; excellent for succession, blooming nearly two weeks after Empress and Horsfieldi. It is of rather dwarf growth, sturdy and robust, with broad foliage. The flowers are beautifully formed, massive and of splendid substance. Trumpet large, and long, of rich yellow. Perianth wide, round petalled and pure white. Planted in shade, it flowers in May. Good cut flower.
GWENDOLEN. ($125 ea.) A new bi-colour trumpet of large and noble form, white perianth petals and a long, straight light canary-yellow trumpet.
HorsrFietpi. (B. 14 in. §{[* soc. doz.) It is a pity that this grand and popular daffodil could not be popularly known as John Horsfield in veneration of the narcissus enthusiast—a modest Scotch shoemaker—who produced it. It is very early flowering, very free, splendid for forcing, and showy in beds and borders. The large flowers have a rich yellow trumpet and a broad petalled, well expanded perianth of pure white. Unfortunately, in the iater years of its life it is getting weaker in constitution, and in some places is now becoming diseased.
Hupa. (C. 18 in. $25 ea.) New and remarkably hand- some. Large and broad petals of pure white and measur- ing four inches across, large trumpet of pale yellow. A flower of great substance.
Ione. Trumpet rich yellow, well expanded and beauti- fully flanged. Perianth imbricated and straw-yellow.
136 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
IsotpE. (D. 20 in. $75 ea.) A handsome, large, new variety, five inches from tip to tip of petals, the latter of cream colour. Trumpet long, and of soft canary. Award of Merit, R. B. S.
J. B. M. Camm. Syn: Mr. J. Bell Camm. (C. 12 in. §] $2 doz.) <A distinct dwarf, but strong-growing va- riety, almost pure white, but classed as a bi-colour. The flowers, in symmetry of form, are perfection, and the chaste colouring, pure white perianth and creamy-yellow trumpet combine in causing this variety to be known as “The new queen of daffodils.” First-class certificate, R. H. S.
Joun Davipson. (C. 12 in. § 9 $5 doz.) Strong- growing, large-flowering; bearing a beautifully formed flower. Trumpet of clear yellow, widely opened at the mouth and prettily frilled. Perianth large and broad, creamy-white. :
Lena. ($1.50 doz.) Long, yellow trumpet of the best form. Primrose perianth.
Lopuxaris. (A. 7 in. ¢30c. doz.) This native of the Netherlands is also known as Dutch nanus. Dwarf and lovely for edgings and naturalising in grass. Trumpet, yellow; perianth, sulphur white.
Mapam_E Piemp. (D. 16 in. § $2.50 doz.) A new late- flowering variety of strong growth, producing very large, bold, well-formed flowers of great substance. Trumpet of immense size and of rich golden-yellow; perianth, white, the petals being large and twisting gracefully; one of the finest of daffodils as a garden plant. Floral certificate at Daffodil Conference.
Maw’s sicotor. (A. +$2.50 hu.) An interesting but confused form about which much has been said which was true but proved untrue, and vice-versa. This paradoxical statement is explained when we understand that Mr. Maw’s bicolor, “discovered” by him in the Pyrenees, was in re- ality “selected” by him. The individuals selected being everything claimed for them: superior in constitution, in
LARGE TRUMPET 137
earliness, in substance, with large golden-yellow trum- pets, fine white perianths, etc. Some of the progeny of these “individuals” proved so fine that they were re-named nobilis, and cthers fell so low in the scale of merit that they were named variformis, and others again could have been correctly named wari-coloured. The fact is that Mr. Maw’s selections belong to a large variable family, indi- genous in many mountainous secticns of Southern Europe; those near abscissus being the most varied. ‘The writer once planted roo bulbs of Maw’s bicolor with surprising results: flowers of all shapes and colours were produced, bi-colours, all yellows and exquisite albinos. Some sur- passed the cataloguer’s description, but many fell short. This type increases rapidly, and like many native sorts is especially suited for naturalising. Thrives best in gritty loam,
MicHAEL Foster. (C. 13 in. § {$1.50 doz.) A large and distinct thick-set flower of good quality: trumpet rich yellow, perianth sulphur white. First-class certificate.
Mrs. BUCHANAN. ($8 ea.) New; distinct and delicate shade. Petals, slightly twisted and cream white; trumpet, primrose-yellow, with nicely flanged open mouth.
Mrs. C. W. Earte. (E. 14 in. §§ $5 ea.) A new seedling, bearing flowers of great beauty, with broad, pure white petals, and elegantly shaped trumpet of citron- yellow.
Mrs. MortanD CRosFIELD. (B. 19 in. § $3 ea.) A magnificent new variety, blooming as early as or earlier than Horsfieldi. A large, showy and beautiful flower with long, bold, clear yellow trumpet and large, pure white petals.
Mrs. WALTER T. Ware. (C. 16 in. § ff $z.50 doz.) Healthy, strong growing, very free flowering and early. Flower of perfect shape, with large white perianth and a well expanded golden-yellow trumpet. Beautifully recurved and frilled at the brim. Where Horsfieldi does
138 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
not thrive this should be used in its place. Award of Merit, R. B. S.
Ormana. (C. 18 in. § [$3 ea.) New; perianth white, trumpet short and broad of soft canary-yellow.
Osiris. (D. $100 ea.) A large, late-flowering new variety, with a bold, handsome, canary-yellow trumpet, well expanded at the mouth and elegantly crinkled; broad petals of creamy-white.
PHaraow. (D. $100 ea.) A new, very large-flowered seedling, with creamy-white petals and a large, broadly- expanded trumpet of canary-yellow. Award of Merit at Birmingham.
Portia. (B. 12 in. | * soc. doz.) Dwarf, early and very free-blooming, closely allied to Michael Foster. ‘Trumpet, yellow; perianth, soft primrose. Good substance.
Prince CoLosri. ($1 ea.) A new seedling of very dwarf habit. Trumpet, deep yellow; perianth, white.
Princers, (A. 15 in. §{[*$2 hu.) A very good, free, early-flowering variety; very popular for cut flowers, forcing and naturalising on account of its low price; flower of good size though lacking in form and substance. Perianth, light sulphur; trumpet, yellow.
Princers Maximus. Sys: Giant Princeps, Don Quixote. (A. 15 in. § § * $2.50 hu.) A selection from the preceding and said to be a little bigger—but so little that were the labels removed no one would notice the difference.
PROSERPINE. (B. 13 in. t $1.25 doz.) A very pretty free-flowering native Spanish daffodil, resembling ‘“cabe- ciras,” but larger and earlier, with gracefully twisted petals of pure white, and a bold golden trumpet with an open spreading mouth.
Pseupo-Narcissus. (B. 9 in. ¢ $1.50 hu.) A species in- digenous to several sections of Southwestern Europe and England. In the latter country it has long been popu- larly known as the “Garland Flower,’ and also as the “English Lent Lily.” Like most native daffodils it is es-
LARGE TRUMPET 139
pecially suited for naturalising. It varies considerably in form and colouring, but the commonest form has a whitish perianth and a long yellow trumpet. It is very early in flowering and may be used for forcing, pot and garden culture.
Pyramus. (D. $30 ea.) A new late-flowering bi-colour of distinct and elegant form. Perianth, creamy, trumpet, canary-yellow, long and slightly rolled back at the mouth. Award of Merit, R. H. S.
QUEEN CHRISTIANA. (D. 14 in. $125 ea.) New late- flowering, extra good variety of great substance, with a large, elegantly formed, bold trumpet of soft lemon colour, widely opened at the mouth and beautifully flanged. Broad, pure white perianth.. Award of Merit and special medal for the best trumpet daffodil in the Show at Bir- mingham.
QuEEN ISABELLA. (B. 12 in. § | $2.50 ea.) A new seed- ling with pointed white petals and an elegantly shaped and frilled trumpet of cream and canary-yellow.
RHEA. (D. $3 ea.) New; good form and great sub- stance. Perianth, white; trumpet, golden-yellow.
Scoticus. (A. + $2 hu.) The Scotch garland flower. A dwarf, extra early flowering native, thriving when naturalised in grass or shaded localities, but often dis- appointing in the cultivated garden, though it frequently forces well. The flower is bold in outline, with whitish perianth and rich yellow trumpet, serrated and flanged at the brim.
Sentinet. (8 * $2.50 doz.) A charmingly effective, strong-growing bicolor for bedding, the flowers just top- ping the foliage. Pure white petals, broad and spreading; trumpet, clear yellow, short but well expanded and flanged at the mouth.
Stnver Spur. (A. $3 doz.) Newly introduced and said to class among the bicolors as Golden Spur in the all-
140 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
yellows. As early as Golden Spur. Perianth, nearly white; trumpet, long and yellow.
Tuscan Bicotor. (+§$1.50 doz.) An extra-early type from Italy; does well in grass, and excellent for pots.
Vicroria, (B. 18 in. § {$1 doz.) A comparatively new variety, bearing immense flowers of ideal form and unsurpassed substance. When flowered under glass it is even more beautiful than when grown in the open. It forces easily and is earlier than any other high-class bi- colour. As a pot plant it is most effective, the flowers being carried erect on tall, stiff stems, gracefully topping the foliage. The petals are of remarkable breadth, creamy white out of doors, but snowy white under glass; the bright yellow trumpet is very large and broad, beautifully flanged and frilled at the mouth. A variety of great merit, strong and healthy in growth, a free bloomer, and especially noted for its vanilla-like perfume. Award of Merit, R. H. S.; certificate of merit, R. B. S.
WEARDALE PERFECTION. (D. 24 in. §§/$5 ea.) A new seedling, the largest and most beautiful bi-colour. Some blooms of this daffodil have been exhibited measuring five inches across. Well proportioned, large white petals and an immense sulphur trumpet. First-class certificate, R. H. S.; Premier prize as the ‘Finest Daffodil” at Birmingham; Floral certificate at the Daffodil Conference, and numerous other awards.
CHAPTER XI
THE LesseER TRUMPET, Hoop PETTICOAT AND CYCLAMEN-FLOWERED DAFFODILS
The grouping together of the sections Humei, Backhousei, Bulbocodium, with cycla- mineus, Johnstoni and triandrus is done for convenience.
The varieties of the two first named sec- tions often have a character in common in the “clipped off” trumpet; but on the other hand the true Backhousei type is almost insepar- able from the large trumpets except that the flower as a whole is smaller.
NARCISSUS HUMEI
“Hume’s Dog-Eared Daffodils” are gar- den hybrids, some people say, between JN. Pseudo-Narcissus and N. montanus, others claim between N. incomparabilis and N. Pseudo-Narcissus. But whatever the paren- tage of the Humei type may be, the flowers, if not very beautiful, have the merit of distinc-
141
142 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
tiveness of form, so precious to the collector of varieties. The flowers are nodding and have a straight crown or trumpet of ‘‘clipped off” appearance and about one inch long—with loosely-flopping petals about half as long again as the crown—from which the suggestive name of “dog-ear” originated. All of the varieties of this type are admirably adapted for beds, borders and naturalising.
Hume! Acsiwus. (f/*$z doz.) Small flowers with sul- phur white perianth petals and a lemon-yellow crown.
Hume concotor. (C. 15 in. § [$1.50 doz.) Perianth and crown of uniform light yellow.
HuMEI Monstrosus. Syn: Hume’s Giant. (B. 12 in. §{7s5c doz.) A larger flower with yellow petals changing to sulphur colour which overhang the deeper yellow straight trumpet.
Tue Leex. (D. 19 in. § 9 *$z ea.) A new variety with creamy-white pointed perianth petals overhanging the straight rich yellow trumpet; foliage broad and droop- ing.
NARCISSUS BACKHOUSEI
A small group with trumpet shaped crowns, a connecting link between the large trumpet daffodils and the medium-crown or cup types, though they are usually classed in the latter section. The whole flower is comparatively small for a trumpet daffodil.
LESSER TRUMPET, ETC. 143
The origina] type was raised by Mr. W. Backhouse in whose honour the group is named. One parent was undoubtedly N. Pseudo-Narcissus but it is disputed whether the other was a Tazetta or incomparabilis variety. Backhousei forms have been raised by crossing Ajax bicolor with poeticus. They are all suitable for pot culture, garden beds, borders and naturalising.
BaAckHousel (the type). (C. 17 in. §9 $1.50 doz.) A distinct hybrid, with a pure yellow, stout trumpet-shaped crown, well expanded reflexed petals of a sulphur-yellow; a bold, handsome lasting flower.
Wittiam Witxks. (C. 15 in. 8{[50c. doz.) Quickly described as an Ajax bicolor, with a shortened trumpet of striking orange-yellow. The trumpet is well expanded, has a beautifully frilled brim. The perianth petals are Lroad, spread well and are cream-white in colour; excellent cut flower; foliage, broad and massive.
Wo ttey Dop. (B. 18 in. $2.50 doz.) Large, spreading, cream-yellow petals and a short, deep yellow crown; a very distinct and excellent form.
THE HOOP PETTICOAT DAFFODILS
A small well characterised dwarf group with rush-like leaves and flowers having a very wide-mouthed trumpet, that in form re- calls the old-fashioned crinoline; petals nar-
144 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
row and of comparative insignificance. They are all varieties of the one species: N. Corbu- laria or Bulbocodium, indigenous to the south of France, Spain, Portugal, Algeria and Mo- rocco. Suitable for rockwork and edgings, or for grouping in the foreground of the her- baceous border; but when forced in pots and pans they are truly beautiful. Easily grown from seed, which is freely produced, flower- ing in about three years from sowing. Give a gritty or sandy, well under-drained loam.
BULBOCODIUM CTITRINUM or CiTRINUS. (C. 6 to 8 in. §§.) 75c doz.) The large yellow “Hoop Petticoat”; rich golden- yellow flowers.
BULBOCODIUM CITRINUM or cITRINUS. (C. 6 to 8 in. § f.) The large sulphur “Hoop Petticoat”, pale lemon yellow flowers.
BuLBocopIuM PRAECOX. (B. 6 in. §f/$z doz.) The early yellow “Hoop Petticoat”. In favored locations this flowers out-of-doors in February.
BULBOCODIUM MONOPHYLLUM or MONOPHYLLA. Syn: Clusii. (A. 6 in. § $1 doz.) The White Hoop Petticoat. Extra early and especially adapted for winter flowering in pots, it also flourishes in sunny nooks in rockwork or sandy soil, The snowy white flowers are of exquisite beauty.
\
BULBOCODIUM MINIATURE, (B. 3 in. § J $2.50 doz.) A very rare variety growing only 3 in. in height bearing diminutive yellow flowers.
LESSER TRUMPET, ETC. 146
THE CYCLAMEN FLOWERED DAFFODILS— CYCLAMINEUS, JOHNSTONI AND TRIAN- DRUS
These three family groups—N. Cyclami- neus, N. Johnstoni and N. triandrus—are in- cluded under the one heading because the flowers of all are distinguished by reflexed petals that liken them to the flowers of the cyclamen. That the three groups are closely related is indicated by the fact that N. cycla- mineus is a sub-species of the Portugese form of N. Pseudo-Narcissus, and the typical forms of N. Johnstoni are natural hybrids between the latter and N. triandrus which is also a wild Spanish and Portugese daffodil. The proper classification of these varieties has been and is still much discussed and the plac- ing of them in one garden group seems to be the logical situation. N. triandrus has rush- like leaves.
Cycramineus. (A, 6 in. §} $x doz.) The yellow cyclamen-flowered daffodil. This dwarf, dainty little variety was lost to cultivation for nearly 300 years—but was rediscovered in Portugal in 1887. It grows only 6 inches high, bearing small drooping flowers of rich yellow and as
shiny as gold. The tubular trumpet, about one inch long, is topped with turned-back petals in cyclamen-like form.
146 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
It is the earliest of all daffodils to bloom and is worthy of a place in every collection for its peculiar and distinctly characteristic flowers. It may be grown in pots, for edg- ings to beds, or in well-drained pockets of rockwork. It is especially valuable for naturalising in shaded places, but it must have a moist, well-drained soil. First class certificate R. H. S.
CYCLAMINEUS, var. MAjor. (A. 6 in. 8 ff $1.25 doz.) This is supposed to be a larger flowering form of the pre- ceding—but I have found no difference between them.
Jounstonr. A wild type found in Portugal and Spain, supposed to be a natural hybrid between some Ajax and Triandrus (Angel’s tears). But whatever its parentage, Johnstoni is a very pretty though diminutive daffodil with a funnel-shaped trumpet about one inch long and reflexed (turned back) petals which place it among the cyclamen- flowered class. In its wild form it varies somewhat in shape and size and also colour, the latter ranging from cream to lemon-yellow. I do not know that any stock of bulbs as collected are offered for sale—but selections from the wild are to be had under the names of “Queen of Spain” and “Mrs. George Cammell.” There are also several artificial or garden hybrids including those enume- rated below but none yet in commerce, viz:
Johnstoni Countess Visconti Countess Grey Count Viscounti ar Cyprian Dorothy Kingsmill 2 Earle Gray Elenor Berkeley
JoHNsTONI, “QUEEN OF SPAIN.” (B. 12 in. $8 §[ $1.25 doz.) A superior selection from the varied wild forms of Johnstoni. A small but beautiful and distinct flower, droopingly poised just above the blue-green foliage. Its
LESSER TRUMPET, ETC. 147
colour is soft-yellow throughout; the trumpet, short and slightly expanded, is topped with periauth petals that turn back like those of a cyclamen. It is attractive in garden beds, and naturalised in shaded places under trees—its effect when in masses is not surpassed by any daffodil in culti- vation. It lasts long in bloom and is a good cut flower.
J. T. Bennetr Por. (15 in. $25 ea.) A beautiful new hybrid of robust constitution: perianth petals of cream colour; trumpet of canary-yellow—straight and elegantly outlined,
Trianprus. Syn: Ganymedes. These small rush leaved daffodils, popularly known as “Angel’s tears,” are found wild in the mountains of Portugal and Spain, where they grow usually in the fissures of rocks. ‘The flowers are small, with bell-shaped crowns and reflexed petals, remind- ing one of cyclamen flowers. For pot culture, several bulbs to a pot, they are well adapted, also for rock work and naturalising, always thriving in shaded locations and in gritty, well drained soil. The varieties are:
TRIANDRUs ALBUS. (C. 7 in. $f 75c. doz.) The white cyclamen-flowered daffodil: creamy white.
TRIANDRUS CALATHINUS, (C. 7 in. § $x ea.) Flow- ers larger and distinct from Albus, and snowy white.
TRIANDRUS CONCOLOR. (C.7 in. $f 50c ea.) Soft yellow throughout, beautiful.
TRIANDRUS PULCHELLUS. (D. 9 in. §{[/$2 ea.) Coro- na white; petals, primrose; rare and exquisite, slightly later, taller and larger than the others,
CHAPTER XII Tue Mepium-Crown Hypsrips
THIs is a most important group, adapted to the broadest ranges of cultivation and em- bracing some of the best varieties for cutting and for naturalising.
NARCISSUS INCOMPARABILIS
THIs is one of the most important sections of the medium-crown group. The type, wild over a large area throughout South- western Europe, was long considered a species, but comparatively recent proofs in- cluding artificial crosses between N. Pseudo- Narcissus and N. poeticus which reproduced the identical plant and flower, have caused N. incomparabilis to be generally recognised as a natural hybrid. There are now many varie- ties—mostly garden crosses. The distinguish- ing characteristic is a cup-shaped crown, one- third to three-quarters the length of the
petals. 148
MEDIUM-CROWN HYBRIDS 149
Practically all the varieties may be de- pended upon for any purpose; they make charming pot plants and are graceful and un- excelled as cut flowers, showy for beds and borders and most effective for naturalising. The richness of colouring in the cup varies ac- cording to season and conditions of soil and exposure.
AMSTERDAM. ($1.50 hu.) Narrow, white petals; cup, large, of an orange cast, stained reddish.
Artemis, (D. § {$x doz.) A strong, tall grower, with handsome flowers, broad perianth petals of white; expanded yellow cup.
Avrantius, Syn: Incomparabilis simplex. (* $1 doz.) One of the type selections from the native N. incomparabilis An early free-flowering variety with sulphur-yellow petals and a yellow and orange crown. Splendid for naturalising and good for cutting. The double-flowering form of this (aurantius plenus) is well known under the catalogue name of Golden Phenix, and the popular name of “Butter and Eggs.”
Autocrat. (C. 20 in. * ff soc. doz.) <A rich self yellow with wide petals and a broadly expanded cup, tinged scarlet at the mouth.
Beauty. (D. 23 in. §[*7s5c doz.) One of the best varieties in the group. A strong grower and free bloomer, producing bold, handsome flowers on long stems. Perianth light yellow, with darker yellow bars shading each petal; cup, very large, well expanded, deep, rich yellow, stained reddish orange. Unsurpassed as an exhibition variety, and should be largely grown as a cut flower. It is also most
150 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
effective in garden and when naturalised. Award of merit, R. H. S. Certificate of merit, R. B. S.
Bertiz. (C. 15 in. J *$1 doz.) A bold, showy flower with broad, creamy-white perianth petals, and a deep yel- low cup bordered orange. A good cut flower, and fairly early.
BLacKweLt. (A. {/*$z ea.) A new variety and the earliest of all narcissus, excepting the small N. minor and N. minimus. It commences to flower by the middle of March and holds its beauty for a month. The flower is bold and handsome. Perianth petals, cream-yellow; cup straight, deeply fluted, rich yellow, stained orange scarlet.
CANARY QUEEN. (D. 21 in. $1 ea.) White petals; crown, canary-yellow, edged with apricot.
CaRDINAL. (B. 18 in. $x ea.) A new seedling of robust growth. Petals, white; crown, large and coloured vivid orange clear to the base.
C. J. BackHouse. (C. 20 in. ft $1.50 doz.) Though named in honour of the daffodil enthusiast, this should not be confounded with the “Backhousei” section, for this variety is a typical incomparabilis and one of the best of the class. The flower is most attractive and distinctively coloured: crown, much elongated, rich orange-yellow, tinged reddish; petals, yellow, medium size. It prefers cool soil in a half- shaded situation. First class certificate, R. H. S.
CoMMANDER. (D. 18 in. § | * $2 doz.) Very large and beautiful flower, not unlike Sir Watkin. Petals, pale sul- phur-yellow; cup, large and broad, rich yellow stained orange red. Strong growing, late flowering. Floral cer- tificate, Daffodil Conference.
CONSTELLATION. (C. 20 in. §f[*$5 doz.) Large and beautiful flower, with broad white petals, and a bright yellow cup, tinged orange at the mouth and prettily crimped at the brim; a tall, strong grower.
Cynosure. (C. 18 in. | * $1.50 hu.) Very satisfactory, free-flowering, low-priced variety; extensively grown for
MEDIUM-CROWN HYBRIDS Ig1
market flowers and most popular for naturalising in grass. The flower, of fair substance, is of first-class size and form. Creamy-white perianth and yellow cup, suffused orange. Splendid for cutting in quantity.
Danby Dick. (B. §{/*$4 ea.) New. A showy, bold flower of good substance. Petals, shortened, broad, cream- yellow ; crown, well expanded, prettily crimped at the brim, bright yellow, with a deep showy orange-red margin.
Doctor GorMAN. ($1.50 doz.) Well expanded, pure white petals, and a rich primrose, beautifully crimped crown. '
FEARLESS. ($50 ea.) A new, giant incomparabilis, with broad, smooth petals of white, and a bold, rich yellow crown, prettily fringed at the brim. Award of Merit, Birmingham.
Ficaro. ($1.50 hu.) An old but still popular variety, producing large flowers with spreading light yellow petals and a much expanded cup, yellow, shaded orange.
Frank Mires. (C. 22 in. §[* soc. doz.) Distinct, with large flowers. Petals, soft yellow, gracefully twisted. The cup, clear yellow. A charming flower for cutting, and ex- ceedingly effective when grown in masses.
Gatrty. (E. 16 in. $2.50 ea.) A new variety with long tapering perianth petals of soft canary-yellow; crown, straight, fluted, brilliant orange.
GeorcE NicHotson. (D. 17 in., $1.50 doz.) Vigorous, large, late flowering. Perianth, pure white; cup, clear yellow. A flower of good form and unusually lasting sub- stance.
Gipsy Lap. (§{*$2 ea.) A desirable new variety, producing bold, showy flowers with broad, well formed petals and a large, pure yellow crown, heavily margined with fiery orange-red.
GuoriA Munpot (D. 18 in. § [$1 ea.) New. Really glorious flowers. Petals, bold, rich, bright yellow; crown, very large, well expanded, rich deep orange, suffused red,
152 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
Without doubt the best of the yellow incomparabilis type, whether for exhibition, for the garden or for cutting. A strong, vigorous grower, but late in flowering. Yirst-class certificate, R, H. S, and Midland Daffodil Society.
GouiATH. (D. 18 in. * $1 doz.) A handsome, large, late-flowering variety, with broad, white petals and large yellaw cup.
GwytHer. (C. 17 in. I *$2.50 hu.) Beautiful and showy for borders and for cutting. Large, broad yellow petals, with a large yellow cup, suffused orange.
HocartH. (C. 20 in. $1.50 doz.) A quaint flower, with a very large yellow cup, much expanded and gathered; petals, yellow and gracefully twisted.
James Bateman. (D. 22 in. §'*75c doz.) Late, a graceful flower of good substance and best form. Petals broad, pure white; cup clear yellow.
KING OF THE NETHERLANDS. (C. 20 in. {[*75c doz.) Distinct and extra good. Petals sulphur coloured; cup large; spreading, yellow stained orange.
Lapy Arnotr. ($6 ea.) A beautiful flower similar to but larger than C. J. Backhouse; perianth yellow, cup yellow, tinged red.
Lapy MarcareT Boscawen. ($20 ea.) A new giant flowered seedling that might be called a “bi-colour Sir Watkin,” the flower being of large size with broad, snowy white petals and a large, expanded crown of golden yellow. First-class certificate, R. H. S.
LogsTer. (B. 18 in. $1 ea.) A new and showy early flowering kind with deep yellow petals and an orange cup, stained red.
Louise. (D. 15 in. § $1 ea.) A handsome late flower of great substance; round, broad petals and a bold canary- yellow cup, tinged orange-red. The cup is prettily crimped at the brim.
Lucirer. (B. 18 in. $2 ea.) <A splendid new Irish seedling. Early, free flowering and a strong grower.
MEDIUM-CROWN HYBRIDS 1$3
Large handsome white petals; cup intense orange-red, very striking. First-class certificate, R. H. S. and Midland Daffodil Society.
LutwortH. Syz: Lulworth Beauty. (14 in. 50c ea.) A real gem when perfect, but some seasons the cup has an inclination to split. Perianth pure white, cup orange- red, sometimes almost scarlet. First-class certificate, R. H. S.
Lypra. ($2 doz.) New. Elegant flowers borne two to four on a stem, the white petals gracefully curved: cup cream, shaded orange-red.
MasBLe Cowan. (D. 20 in. J * $1.50 doz.) A profuse blooming late sort—a beautiful flower of lasting substance. Splendid for cutting. Perianth white; cup broadly mar- gined orange-scarlet. Floral certificate, Daffodil Confer- ence,
Macoc. (C. §*75c doz.) Well known among those who grow flowers for market. The discriminating col- lector however chooses Sir Watkin instead. The flower of Magog is of good size and form with cream-yellow perianth and sulphur yellow cup. It does well naturali- sed in grass,
Mary ANDERSON. The single form of Orange Phoenix, popularly known as Eggs and Bacon. Flower of medium size, perianth pure white, cup deep orange suffused reddish.
Mars. (B. 18 in. § $5 ea.) A new variety of strong, tall growth and free-flowering qualities. Broad, white petals and large, open, orange-red crown.
PerFecTus, (D. 21 in. §fsoc ea.) A late flower of charming symmetry and great substance having well- formed stiff white petals, and an expanded cup of canary- yellow, slightly suffused orange.
PRINCE oF TECK. (D. 18 in. § [$x doz.) A late flower with broad, well-formed, imbricated creamy-white petals and a large, expanded yellow cup.
154 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
Princess Mary. Syn: Princess Mary of Cambridge. (C. 16 in. § § $1 doz.) A well-known mid-season variety of high merit, producing flowers of perfect form. Petals creamy-white, broad and spreading; cup yellow suffused reddish-orange, large and expanding. Distinct and beauti- ful. First-class certificate, R. H. S.
Queen Bess. (A. 15 in. §f/*75c doz.) The earliest to bloom among the incomparabilis. Very popular for early forcing; large, broad, white petals; cup lemon- yellow, much expanded,
QUEEN CATHERINA. (B. 18 in. § {| * $2.50 doz.) A new, early and meritorious variety, a strong grower and free bloomer, often producing two flowers on a stem. Reflexed petals creamy-yellow, and large bright yellow open cup, suffused orange. The cup is prettily crinkled at the mouth. Strong foliage, deep blue-green. A valuable bedder.
QUEEN SopHIA. (C. 18 in. $5 doz.) An old reliabfe variety thriving best in stiff loamy soil. Petals sulphury white; cup yellow, expanded, frilled at the brim and stained orange-red. First-class certificate, R. H. S.
Rep Star. (E. 14 in. $5 doz.) New. Extra late in flowering and valuable for succession. Like most late flowers it surpasses the average in size and substance. Petals creamy white, elegantly arched; long straight cup, yellow stained brilliant red. Free flowering and very showy.
Semi-partiTus. (D. 17 in. $2 doz.) An old, distinct and interesting variety with a pale primrose perianth and deeply lobed (imbricated) light vellow cup.
Sir WATKIN. (B. 21 in. §*50c doz.) This Welsh giant is one of the best, largest and freest bloomers of the incomparabilis section; it is also very early. When well grown the flowers measure five inches across; the wide- spreading petals are pale yellow; the cup bright yellow, and frequently tinged orange near the mouth; a healthy strong grower with long stemmed flowers of good sub-
MEDIUM-CROWN HYBRIDS 155
stance. The connoisseur may claim the flower is a little gross and coarse—but for large flowers and plenty of them it is valuable for cutting, lasting well in water. It forces easily, does well in pots, is very showy when massed in garden beds and borders, and for naturalising in grass it has few equals. It makes large bulbs which multiply rapidly from offsets.
STEADFAST. ($5 ea.) A new giant of excellent substance and handsome form, Petals white, crown cylindrical, and of rich yellow.
STELLA. (C. § 9 *$2 hu.) A well-known variety, pepular for forcing, open ground planting and natural- ising on account of its low price, being grown by thousands for cutting purposes, It is a reliable bloomer, fairly early. Charming medium-sized flower, with pure white petals and lemon-yellow crown.
STELLA SUPERBA. (C. 20 in. 8{[*75c doz.) A new and splendid introduction, great improvement over Stella, the flowers being as large again and of great substance, borne on long stout stems, splendid as cut flowers. Large spreading clear white petals; cup large, well expanded, bright yellow. A free bloomer, strong grower, effective bedder, and also does well naturalised.
STARLIGHT. ($1.25 ea.) One of the most brilliant of this section, the bright orange crown contrasting well against the white perianth. Very free-blooming, averaging three to five flowers on each stem.
SWEETHEART. (C. 15 in. $1.50 ea.) This new variety was originally introduced in 1901 as Phyllis, but that name having been given to both Leedsii and Tazetta varieties the “incomparabilis Phyllis’ was withdrawn. It produces large and beautiful flowers with white petals and a straight canary-yellow crown beautifully fluted and flanged at the brim.
Tue Rivat. (C. 18 in. $3 ea.) New seedling. Sym- metrical round form; petals broad and over-lapping, pale
156 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS
canary-yellow. Crown fluted at the brim and edged orange-red.
Titian. (B. 18 in. §§ *$2 hu.) Early, large and well formed, with yellow petals and a yellow cup stained orange-red.
Torcu. (ff *$3 ea.) New and very showy. Large yellow petals, gracefully twisted: very large crown, yellow suffused fiery orange-red. Award of Merit, R. H. 8S.
TrrumpH. ($5 ea.) Flowers almost as Jargs as those of Sir Watkin but later and of more perfect form and greater substance. Pure white petals; very large deep yellow crown.
Vesuvius. (15 in. [*$2 doz.) A good grower and free bloomer; sulphury-white petals; cup, glowing orange, tinged reddish.
Wuite Wines. (§{[ $1.50 ea.) Broad round pure white petals; crown, clear yellow. Award of Merit, R. H. S.
WILL Scartetr. (f *$20 ea.) A new and strikingly attractive flower. The fiery orange-red colouring of the wide-mouthed crinkled cup is remarkable, perianth rather weak, creamy white. First-class certificate, R. H. S.
NARCISSUS NELSONI
Garden hybrids, the parentage of which seems to be Ajax bicolor and N. poeticus. They are aptly described as “‘shortened trum- pet bi-colours,” having white petals and gob- let-shaped crowns more than half the length of the petals.
Late flowering and therefore highly prized for succession. Suitable for beds and bor-
Prate XVII
ALL-WHITE TRUMPET DAFFODIL Madame De Graaff, one of the most important of the white trumpet varieties. Remarkably sturdy, growing sixteen inches high. On first opening, the trumpet is faintly tinged with a shade of primrose
Pirate XVIII
MEDIUM-CROWN, OR CUP DAFFODIL N. INCOMPARABILIS
Sir Watkin, a most popular large-flowered variety of the medium-crown group for bedding, for cut flowers and for forcing. Early, very sturdy and taller than the average. Perianth rich yellow, cup rich sulphur tinged orange.
MEDIUM-CROWN HYBRIDS 154
ders, for naturalising and for pot culture, 3 to 5 bulbs in a five-inch pot. As cut flowers they are especially valuable, lasting a long time in water.
Aurantius, Syn: Nelson’s Orange. (D. 12 in. soc ea.) A distinct flower, one of the best shapes in the section; the pure white perianth is broad and flat: the long crown bright yellow suffused with orange-red is well expanded and fluted. First-class certificate, R. H. S.
NELsONI MAjor. (D. 16 in. §8{[*50c doz.) Late flowering variety with a rather long cylindrical golden- yellow crown, suffused with orange on first opening. Petals pure white.
NELSONI MINOR. (D. 12 in. f{$xdoz.) The small form of Nelsoni Major. Dwarf small, snow-white peri- anth; crown deep yellow, the pistil projecting beyond the brim; excellent for naturalising.
Mrs. C. J. Backuousz. (D. 12 in. §{[/*75c doz.) Superb. Massive broad white petals and a clear yellow well-expanded crown. First-class certificate, R. H. 8.
Mrs. Knicuts. (E. {| *$2 ea.) New seedling, very late. Broad white petals and a broad bright yellow crown.
PuLcHELLUS. (D. 15 in. [.* $1.50 doz.) A beautiful drooping flower with imbricated campanulate perianth of pure white and a light yellow crown.
ResotuTe. (D. 13 in. §§'7sc ea.) New. A _ bold, pendulous flower. Perianth broad and of creamy-yel- low, long straight crown of clear yellow. A strong grower and free bloomer.
Srronc Bow. (D. 11 in. § 9 $2.50 ea.) A new and sturdy variety with broad thick foliage. The flower of great substance has bread snowy-white petals, and a large well-expanded rich-yellow crown. Award of merit, Birmingham; award of merit, R. H. S.
15 8 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
Witiam Bacxuouse. (D. 15 in. § [$2.50 hu.) A good late flower. Petals white and broad: cup clear yel- low. First-class certificate.
NARCISSUS LEEDSII
Popularly known as the “white star nar- cissus,” ‘‘eucharis-flowered narcissus,’’ and “silver-winged narcissus.” The predominating characteristics are white, spreading, star-like perianth, and white or pale sulphur yellow cups. As now understood this section com- prises not only the typical Leedsii hybrids but the white and sulphur cupped incompar- abilis and Barrii forms, having white petals.
Leedsii varieties are produced from cross- ing white Ajax varieties with N. poeticus. From the first mentioned parent they inherit the graceful pendant carriage of the flower, and from the latter their constitution and ro- bustness. ‘They embrace some of the most generally useful varieties.
The sweetly perfumed flowers are highly decorative in vases and bouquets. Grown in pots (3 to 5 in a five-inch pot) the Leedsii varieties flower well, and in beds and borders they are most charming; excellent also when naturalised in quantity.
MEDIUM-CROWN HYBRIDS 159
Acnes Harvey. (D. 13 in. §9 $8 ea.) A beautiful new late-flowering seedling having some N. triandrus blood in it, which probably accounts for the flowers sometimes coming three on a stem. Petals pure white and of ex- quisite form; cup widely open at the mouth, pure white though sometimes flushed with rosy apricot. Award of merit, R. H. S.
AmaBILIS. (B. 13 in. * [$2 hu.) " Early and very free flowering, large pure white spreading petals and a long lemon-coloured crown toning off to silvery white.
Amazon. (§{ $2.50 ea.) A remarkably beautiful flower of splendid substance and form. Petals pure white, crown Iemon-yellow. Robust in growth and free flowering, often producing two flowers on a stem.
ARIADNE. (C. 15 in. § $2.50 ea.) New and of striking beauty. Cup ivory white, very large, saucer shaped, spreading wide at the mouth and prettily frilled. Perianth white. Awards of merit, Birmingham, Truro, Plymouth and R. H. 8.
Beatrice. (C. 16 in. § ff *$1.50 doz.) One of the handsomest and most distinctive flowers in the section. Snowy white perianth of graceful campanulate form; cup globular flesh colour tinted white.
Branca. ($50 ea.) A new seedling of beautiful form. Perianth broad and of pure white, the goblet-like, prettily fluted crown is bright canary-yellow with a green eye.
Briar Veit. (C. § {| *$2 ea.) New. Gracefully twist- ing snowy white petals. Long globular creamy white cup. A beautiful drooping flower.
BriprsMaw. (C. 20 in. §§/*$3 doz.) A large and beautiful flower with a fairly broad campanulate pure white perianth, and a large globular cream white cup well-expanded at the brim.
CoNSTANCE PieRPONT. (B. 22 in. § f $2.50 doz.) Very early. Strong growth. Perianth pure white; cup pale yel- low well-expanded at the brim.
160 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS
Detos. (B. 24 in. § 9 $2.50 doz.) An early, tall, and vigorous grower: gracefully twisted pure white petals; cup citron-yellow at the base. It flowers in perfection for several weeks.
Diana. (17 in. $15 ea.) A new giant flowered form with broad, white, slightly reflexed petals and a large expanded crown of soft canary-yellow. Award of merit, R. H. S.
DucuHeEss oF BRABANT. Syn: Circe. (C. * $1.50 hu.) A popular free-flowering dwarf variety often grown in quantity both for cutting and naturalising. In grass it thrives as well as N. poeticus, charming medium-sized flowers sometimes borne two or three on a stem. Petals white, small canary cup.
Ducuess oF WESTMINSTER. (D. § §*$z.50 doz.) This Queen of the Leedsiis is a comparatively new variety, producing immense handsomely formed flowers on strong stems. The petals of pure white are very large, spread- ing and taper prettily to a point; the long cup on opening is canary tinged with orange, but this colouring soon passes off to almost white. Excellent for pots, flower beds, bor- ders, cutting or naturalising. Late flowering. First-class certificate, R. H. S.
ELAINE. (17 in. $3 ea.) New and very beautiful, with a broad silvery white perianth and a globular fluted crown of white, shaded towards the base with citron-yellow. First class certificate R. H. S.
Enw. (§{[*$z0 ea.) New, in the way of Mrs. Lang- try but a decided improvement. Large snowy white peri- anth and long straight sulphury-white crinkled crown. Tall.
Eoster. ($15 ea.) A new seedling, producing large flowers of perfect form. Perianth white of much substance. Crown globular shaded lemon yellow. Award of merit, R. H. S.
Fairy QUEEN. (16 in. § {$2.50 doz.) A remarkably
Puate XIX
NARCISSUS BARRII CONSPICUUS One of the most beautiful and generally useful varieties of the medium-crown, or cup daffodils. Equally suitable for cut flowers or for growing in the garden border and when cut lasts longer in water than most other varieties. Late. Yellow peri- anth; cup yellow, conspicuously edged with orange-scarlet
Pirate XX
THE HOOP-PETTICOAT DAFFODILS The flowers are practically all trumpet and no petals. Best suited for rockeries or for growing in pans in the cool greenhouse. The leaves are rush-like and the flowers range from yellow to sulphur white (NN. Bulbocodium)
MEDIUM-CROWN HYBRIDS 16.
free-flowering strong-growing new variety with a pure white perianth and a straight, broadly expsznded and fluted creamy white